Alternator OEM Nissan or Duralast

From personal experience, I'd recommend the duralast gold alternator from autozone. I originally got the duralast regular alternator but I had to change it out it least 2 more times under warranty. The last time I just decided to upgrade to the gold version since I was sick of replacing the alternator, and it's been great for over 2 years now. Remanufactured ones are usually junk, get a new one like the duralast gold one. FYI what usually gives out first is the built in voltage regulator, that's what went wrong every time with the cheaper remanufactured alternator. There might be other good ones out there but that's my experience

My car started experiencing the same issue as yours. Randomly lose power, no acceleration, give jump start, two days later, the same issue. Had to have it towed to Nissan. Yes, long story short, it does need a genuine OEM Alternator and OEM Battery! For some reason, the 3rd party parts are not as effective in the product. Once placed in my Nissan, it was commented there have been no issues.

We just replaced the wife's X three weeks ago. Had the same problem you had with a battery light and brake light. Ended going to AutoZone when we were in vacation and got a Duralast Gold and had a local mechanic do the install.

If you go to autozones website and plug your car info in, what price does it give you for the duralast gold alternator?

Finally, ordered a duralast Alternator which is expected to be delivered tomorrow.

Duralast Gold = new manufacture. A new unit from China. Sometimes OK, but often crap.

The refurbished Duralast alternator has worked fine for a few months but the last month I started to hear belt noise and assumed it was related to the alternator. The last couple of weeks I would smell a new unknown burnt smell that smoked like either rubber or electronics which has led me to wonder if the battery/alternator fuses have gone out.

I got a alternator from AutoZone( duralast pos) and a new battery , same thing, car started with new battery ,voltage at the battery was around 12.5 and voltage directly on the alternator was the same exact voltage as the battery which showed the alternator still wasn\u2019t charging I took that alternator out got my money back and went to a reputable alternator and starter shop around my area and got a quality rebuilt one. They tested the alternator before they gave it to me and confirmed it was in working order. I installed it and still the alternator is not charging the battery , i checked voltage directly at the new alternator and still got the same voltage as the battry while the engine was running , so its still not charging the battery or producing power

Believe it or not, though I installed a brand new alternator(Duralast gold) that turned out to be bad from the start and I had to replace it again(so I guess what I’m saying is check the tention on your belt, but don’t rule out the new alternator as - also - being bad), been 2 years since tho.

I purchased a Duralast 115A Alternator 14921 (remanufactured) which, once we moved the pulley and fan from old to new, it mounted up without a hitch. Once the battery was charged I connected everything up and she started right up. However, the voltmeter was hanging around 12V so we put a multimeter on the battery and only saw 12V+/-.