I went through 2 on our old Volvo until I bought the oem part and it lasted for the remainder of the time we had the car.
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Sweden
The same happened to my S80 after 17 years and 150'000km. The mechanic said he was impressed the original ones held up for so long.
My XC70 has the best factory rack ever. Stainless steel full length rails, OEM accessory Volvo-branded Thule blade crossbars.
I had the connectors inside the harness for the speed sensor on the diff corrode away and found that there's a brand of bullet connectors with heatshrink that fit perfectly into the Volvo connector.
I have the similar motor as the 740 you posted. These cars are super simple to work on and nothing major really goes wrong with them. If you do run into issues you can find DIY help on the internets and parts are dirt cheap.
Non-turbo 8v Volvos are unstoppable. I have a '91 740 with about 150k (odometer broke at 103,000) and the only thing that's gone wrong in 4 years besides normal maintenance stuff (brakes, tires...) is the heater core. Watch out for that, it's probably the most expensive repair on this car.
My old fuel pressure regulator spat out stuff like that from the vacuum port when I ran water into it. Pretty sure the varnish was the only thing holding the diaphragm together.
Bought my gf a 96 850 turbo meticulously maintained, odo is broken at 312, car should be neering 500k, doesnt burn leak anything, drive amazing on the high and returns 21.3 mpg, only think i dont like about it is no off the line grunt and the brakes arent the best.
2005 Volvo S40 T5 with the 6 speed...the starter would spin without catching 50% of the time.
Steering rack on a Volvo V70 (and I expect most P80/P2 chassis), the rack doubles as an engine mount. So you've got to rock the engine forward to pull the rack out. Then you find out that the refurbished rack had the mount part cut off, and the resulting engine shake is no worse than it was prior to rack replacement, so why was that included in the first place?
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