Reviews of OEM Volkswagen parts For Business

2.0 Cr Tdi-t hajtok, 190le 400nm, hülye autó 1600 javasolja a felváltást. 2500-3000 között szoktam, 3000-nél az olajpumpa nagynyomású fokozatba vált (egyszer vmi Vw kézikönyvben találtam egy diagramot, ott írta, tehát nem a seggemből húzom ki az információt) 2500 felett mostanában mentem vele, de volt már arra is példa hogy 4700 volt a fordulat (padlógáz, intenzív gyorsítás) tök jól húzott, igaz hangja is volt rendesen. Turbó meg motor mindig visszahűtve mikor leállítom, olajcsere ezen a kocsin 12 ezrenként megvan. Eddig egy kipufogószelepet kellett pluszba cserélni mert beragadt.

Looks like a good project. I would be concerned about what you described about the brakes. It could be alot of different things causing that issue.

In Germany, tires cannot protrude significantly past the fenders of a vehicle. Specifically, German law dictates that the tire tread must be covered, and the tire should not protrude more than 5 centimeters (2 inches) beyond the wheel well.

I just changed my plugs at 75,000 miles...I was impressed as to how clean the plugs were and the color. Looks good. The gap was still .030 as the new ones were (VW 06K905601K). Definitely could have gone much longer but it's an easy replacement.

I'm night blind and my 2025 BE headlights are fantastic. I'm not sure if I'm half retarded, but it almost seems like the Matrix is activated from the factory. My menu has "dynamic lights" able to be activated, and they work great.

We've had a 2009 GTI since new and now has 110k. In the last 16 years, we've replaced 2 water pumps, one dsg mech unit (under warranty), abs unit, pcv valve, rear main seal and in the past year, timing chain and guides as preventative maintenance.

Those leaks on your VW... looks to be the expansion tank cap not functioning properly...

I have a 2010 VW Tiguan, it has almost 102,000 miles on it... The garage said to fix what probably is the water pump would be very costly, the water pump is buried in the car, he said removing parts would add more costs with brittle hoses, etc.

Originally thought it was a seized caliper. Car needed a brake job as rotors have corroded away so I replaced calipers, rotors and pads on the front. Symptoms: Caliper on front right doesn't release fully. Audible drag, vibration, heat etc. If i stop and pump the breaks (hard) two or three times it releases (50% of the time). So if it doesn't, pump again. Conversely, light application to the brakes results in the caliper not releasing. Drag strength varies. Sometimes it's slight and causes a slight squeal and light vibration at speed. Sometimes the car won't move when put into drive (it's an automatic).

The automatic transmission on VW worked as badly as on cheap 90s car.