Water pump OEM Toyota or Pierburg

we always used Pierburg assemblies with Mahle gaskets/o-rings if needed.

The BMW original from pierburg last way longer than 60,000 miles, more like 90,000 miles. Plus, as time went on they made them better than before. Getter a new one today will last longer than the original one.

We routinely get cars with 120,000 miles on their first water pump too.

My car had a Pierburg on it for over 100k miles and 12 years. It still worked great before I replaced it out of caution.

I’m driving a 98 Toyota Camry and just changed the water pump at 300k(which includes changing the timing belt).

I went with the all metal Pierberg pump for my E90, with an N54. The problem with the plastic is that it gets brittle due to thermo cycling, and that is s problem for all of the plastic parts in these engines (valve cover, radiator, expansion tank etc etc). I probably only have 10-15k km on this one so far, but no problems to report and some very long driving days.

Toyota / Lexus hybrids are bulletproof if taken care of. My 2007 Toyota Prius was bulletproof. The only thing that went bad was water pump at 192000 miles.

However the pierburg shouldn't crack as it's all aluminum. That doesn't mean it'll last any longer. My original one (n54) failed at about 60k. Replaced with factory. Then replaced that one with pierburg as I was doing oil pan gasket and figured might as well since I'm in there at about 90k. The pierburg one failed at 10k miles (electronics jammed up somehow…I’m guessing some sort of freak surge or something as it’s a pretty simple design). Anyway replaced that with pierburg again and going strong albeit it’s only been 30k miles on the new one.

New parts should be in tomorrow (Pierburg pump). I'll update again after everything is back in! As a small detail, I noticed a brown seal-looking thing stuck in the impeller of the water pump (Continental, BMW logo. Probably factory) I am thinking the pump internally failed while spinning, and the internals took the hit and self-destructed. Hence the total BSD failure code. Just a guess though.

I got all aluminum Pierburg water pump to replace (working) VDO water pump. After putting everything back together, bleeding the system, I turned on the car, drove 40 miles with a couple on and off cycles and then shut it off for a couple of hours. I came back, started the car, I got the low coolant level warning, understandable, air escaped the system (I guess I didn't bleed it enough lol). Topped it off, drove 20 miles back home and then heating suddenly stopped working and coolant temp started rising. Went from 95 C to 100, then 105 and that's when I shut the car off, didn't want it to overheat. Ever since then, my pump works intermittently. I had a laptop set up next to me with INPA on today and drove close to the house to have the car ready for emissions (thank God!). After bleeding the system two more times yesterday it seemed like it was fine but while driving today, after maybe 20 minutes of driving, the pump stopped working and would not come back on again. It was like trying, the percentage rose to 30-35% and then back to zero immediately. Temperature went from 90 C to around 110 C rather quick obviously. Then out of nowhere, it started working again for a bit. Got close to the store I was going to, and it stopped working again. I was able to pull into the parking lot as it got to 120 C and got a yellow overheating warning. On my way back home from the store, the pump only started working again maybe 3 minutes from home, had to stop once and then turn off the car and keep rolling most of the way to not let it overheat. Also, there's no heating from the vents until I set it to 28 C but at the same time there's no movement from the pump in INPA.

My water pump was leaking this Fall at 235k. New mechanic showed me the leaky pump and it was oem toyota.