Thermostat MISHIMOTO or Duralast

installed new Duralast (motorad) 207F thermostat and it seems to have fixed the issues. Gauge is coming up to just a hair under the 210 midpoint and the live data on my scan tool shows the ECT is running between 205 and about 214F after fully warmed up and moderate level accelerations and driving. The front heat is now scorching hot and the rear heat is much improved as well.

I got a duralast part from autozone with a lifetime warranty for 25 bucks. My jeep has been been running well for the last year since the change to the duralast part

I have a mishimoto thermostat with their radiator setup. It does kick on the fans on at a lower temp range than when the stock one would which is good. I had issues running hot on the stock rad/thermostat and haven't had any issues since.

I will say I went through several OEM stats and finally put a duralast in and it's been in now 5 years no problems.

I wanted to upgrade from plastic and got an aluminum Mishimoto thermostat, but i didn’t notice that it opens at 180°. Can i get away with the 180° thermostat, or should i ship it back and re-order a different, higher rated thermostat?

I’ve changed mine once already recently (it was a duralast thermostat because I’m stupid, that might be the current issue) and it’s still acting similar and trending towards overheating at 60+ mph even with the radiator fans on high. The radiator in lines are frigid after it’s been running at mid/high temps and the radiator out lines are hot

Forget about the Mishimoto thermostat. The OEM thermostat is way more reliable and does the job.

I put the mishimoto 160* in hot water to test it out. Lo and behold, wax started seeping out.

I had 2 fail back to back. The first lasted 3 months, a couple thousand miles, the 2nd lasted 5 weeks, also a couple thousand miles. Left me stranded. 275 degree spike followed by coolant puking.

I'd advise taking that Duralast thermostat out and installing either an OEM unit or a unit from a trusted brand (such as Stant). If the Duralast gets stuck in a closed position, the SUV will overheat. If it gets stuck in an open position, the engine won't reach operating temp, and you'll have issues such as running rich. Duralast has a nickname we techs refer to: Duracrap or Dura-doesn't-last.