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I had the same issue with my 2016 V6 Touring. I followed the instructions on the TSB, replaced the starter with a Duralast Gold starter from Autozone ($400), & replaced the alternator (OEM) at the dealership. No issues at all. It has been over a year and a half.
I've gotten in the habit of installing the smaller, lighter, more powerful DL9990S in all of my older small block trucks that use the big heavy 3510 series starters. Never once had an issue with them.
Replaced mine with a Duralast and worked wonders I even made a youtube video on it.
I took the car to the dealership and they said it needs a new starter. It’s being covered under warranty.
I knew it had to be the starter. I had read somewhere that Subaru starters are hard to get, and my year in particular is faulty. So today, I took it to my dealer, and they said that the starter had to be replaced. On my bill, it said that the starter was taking excessive amperage. On a video on the Tube, that version of the starter has a faulty gear which causes trouble starting the engine.
I got a replacement Duralast 17341 for a Hyundai Accent 2011 GL, and it was grinding like crazy. Really worried me.
My experience with Duralast starters have been horrible. They sell them with a 'lifetime guarantee', which means that every time they fail once a year or so, you have the pleasure of crawling under the car and switching it out for another one that is going to eventually fail!
Replaced the starter with a remanufactured one from AutoZone. Looking back, it never seemed right; it would start okay, but sometimes it seemed to turn slower than other times. So, bad Duralast remanufactured starter apparently.
If your past 3 starters were genuine honda, they suck. Get a duralast. They actually last and work consistently compared to honda oem.
I needed a starter for my 2013 accord. Couldn't wait for OEM and bought a duralast that lasted 2 months.
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