30
No data
30
No data
When I did the change at home-used the motor craft filter FL190S and mobile 1 full synthetic for $35.00. Biggest pain at home is removing the panel under the chassis.
Personally I’ll ONLY use the manufacturer filters on my vehicles and I’ll look through the catalogs to find the largest filter that fits. I’ve been using Motorcraft FL1As on my pu for the 28 years I’ve owned it and it’s cheap insurance.
I was having the same noise on cold startup with an aftermarket filter and switched back to the fomoco filter and it went away. Something to do with a drain valve in the filter. The ford one is silicone and some of the aftermarket ones arent and it can cause problems.
I've always had good luck with the FL 820s in a 3.0.
For oil filter, I run the same one on my 302 and 390: Motorcraft FL-1A. I believe it is (or was, at least) made by Purolator and is my go-to for my old Ford V8s.
I personally use the Ford motorcraft OEM filters in the largest size that fits cleanly with a similar bypass pressure.
Every 5000 miles, it's time for 16 quarts of oil and a filter the approximate size of a Nalgene bottle.
I use Motorcaft synthetic oil and filter. It's what the manufacturer recommends. There are probably 50 other oils out there that are just fine for regular driving and the occasional burnout. I just tend to stick with what the people who designed the engine would recommend over what someone on the internet does, unless there is a clear reason not to. And if you disagree, you do you.
Ford Oil filter is less than 50 AED. No clue what's the difference between the one branded as FORD vs MOTORCRAFT, but hey - you can even get a sport oil filter from K&N for around 60 AED... damn marketing.
Raise you a 3.0 ford taurus, which dumped all of the dirty oil right onto the starter.
Write your review
Help others - share your experience with this part.