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I run Castrol Edge 5W-30 with Mahle filters and no stabilazers since I don\u2019t trust that bullshit. Changes every 10,000km and she\u2019s still running beautifully with 205,000km on the clock
Since I've owned it, I've performed all the work listed below with genuine VW parts when possible. I've also flushed the oil with Liqui-Moly engine flush, and performed a Seafoam cleaning. Afterwards, oil was changed to Liqui-Moly 5w40 Synthoil Premium and new Hengst oil filter.
I recently installed this canister in my 24v VR6: Better anti-drain back valve in it.
I'm currently running a Mahle OC75 filter, its easier to get from Amazon, and it is only slightly longer. I go back and forth between 15W50 in the winter and 20W50 in the warmer months. The 15W is synthetic and 20W isn't.
I used to get cheap Mahle oil filters for my K100 on Amazon for $15 or so
I use Mahle filters in both my VR6 and 2.5 from first oil change. No issues.
I ordered from ECS Tuning - Got 5 qts of Mobil 1 ESP, oil filter, fuel filter, air filter, DSG filter, magnetic oil drain plug for $100 shipped. All Hengst or Mann filters.
Mahle. Best pleat design I’ve seen and according to Volvo, their primary reason they selected Mahle over MANN or Hengst.
Official VW filters are Hengst's with a little VW logo and part number printed on the end just note that the filters do not include the gasket for the oil-can drain plug (dunno if that's on the mkIII's, but it's on the mkIV's). Just means you can't really drain the can, just unscrew it and be quick to minimize the amount of oil that goes flying
I've just experienced this same problem with my 2017 Buick. I have the UFI cap and the dealers used the Hengst filter 7 of the 9 times I had it changed at the dealer. Using a Hengst filter in the UFI cap results in the oil bypassing the oil filter all the time. The UFI cap expects the bypass valve to be on the filter and the Hengst filter just has an open hole there resulting in the car being run for about 50,000 of its 70,000 mile life WITHOUT an oil filter.
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