Oil filter Fram or OEM Toyota

I'd go with a 'premium' oil filter like a Fram Ultra ($8).

I got my crv at 148k miles, I use Valvoline conventional 5w-20 and a fram extra guard filter. I change my oil around 6k miles.

Have driven from 268,000km's to 388,000km's in the last 5 years. Always full synthetic. I also do my oil once every 6000km , which is early with synthetic, but I want to treat my baby nice. I always get the Fram Full synthetic oil filters - not because they are neccesarily better, but because they have the grip-tape around them, making it easier to remove.

Frame Ultras are actually quite good. The. Orange ran frams are the ones to avoid.

I use OEM or Wix filters only, but my dad has been using fram filters for decades and swears they're fine. Most of his vehicles have over 300k miles on them when he sells them too, so it's not like he dumps them when they're out of warranty.

I pulled off the suspect filter and put a new one on. Unfortunately, I had several variables at play, and could not isolate root cause. Initially, the new filter didn't seem to make much of a difference. It quieted down a little.

Frams are cheaper. Fram filters are smaller and don't have the same internal baffle / checks and might not filter as well. It's just not as quality of a part than other manufacturers. You get what you pay for.

i had the same issue, when i changed to an OEM oil filter, (not a Fram as the original owner) the problem went away...

ive been using that fram filter since my girl got her '94 2.0 jetta and i thought it was the oil pump about to go... her oil light only goes on when shes driving slow but she'll downshift and once it goes up in rpm's the light goes off...

I have a 94 ABA 2.0L Jetta. Changed the oil and installed a ph2870A filter, took it for a drive and the buzzer would come on. The oil light come on..and at certain point at 4k rpm a 90miles under light load...flat road the light would come on...and then go off..