Oil filter Fram or OEM Honda

Yeah P0740 is the writing on the wall that the tc is on the way out. However, I'd try a couple things before throwing in the towel. Firstly, changing all the fluid out and replacing the filter is a start.

I have used Fram for 20+ years. Every single car lasted well over 116,000 miles. I have seen the issues, complaints, and so on, just lucky I guess. If I could get the FRAM filter for it, I used it. Then again, back then, on some of those models, they were a better filter.

Replaced: oil filter (fram), oil 0-40w Outcome: Compression was restored and car started, loud valve train noise gone.

My '94 Celica with 256k miles never knew it to be true. Good ol' Fram orange is pretty much all I've ever used, though I did switch to the "high mileage" ones somewhere around 225k. That's what's on there right now.

Never felt any substantial difference from the changing of the oil itself but did notice that using a regular Fram filter made for a shaky idle in the '89 Integra I had. Changing the filter back to an STP made the wonky idle go away.

i know that look! i actually bought a fram filter when i turbo'd my car, it was a new design from their original design. they used to be exact copies of the vw/hengst and mann. design. it had Plastic "caps" and was essentially fused to the filter media. the new ones however are a strange material that is sewn onto the media with a gauze like inner circle. so i used it and after running the turbo for a few weeks i did a maintence change and noticed the filter was totally collapsed upon itself.

OEM when easily available and Purolator pure one when there not. I'll add to the fram discussion, that at the shop I work at we just got done installing a $3500 engine in a vehicle because the fram filter literally collapsed and blocked the oiling system entirely (that isn't the only engine with a fram I've seen that happen to either).

I use Mobil 1 oil and Mobil 1 filter. I may go with the K&N filter from time to time. Quaker State and Fram filters are the last thing I would use. Quaker State conventional at least, nearly ruined my Dad's '68 Plymouth Sport Fury. Fram filters are cheap, using a metal crimp to hold the filter together, this crimp often does not close off the filter leaving a large hole for particulates to pass through freely.

Are you using a cheap generic/fram filter? If so throw it away. Oil change shops use a generic cheapie crapazoidal filter, and uses 10w30 for your car.

Frams are cheaper. Fram filters are smaller and don't have the same internal baffle / checks and might not filter as well. It's just not as quality of a part than other manufacturers. You get what you pay for.