The OEM filter is not the best in any metric, whether filtration %, efficiency, or longevity. I'd say the OEM A01 filter is regarded as better built too but can be pricier and harder to obtain.
My recommendation would be Fram Ultra XG7317 which is a heavy duty built filter with synthetic media - I happily run this one for two oil changes at 6000 miles before changing.
I use Mobile 1 0w-20 and the top of the line Fram oil filter on my 2013 Highlander.
I'd go with a 'premium' oil filter like a Fram Ultra ($8).
I got my crv at 148k miles, I use Valvoline conventional 5w-20 and a fram extra guard filter. I change my oil around 6k miles.
Have driven from 268,000km's to 388,000km's in the last 5 years. Always full synthetic. I also do my oil once every 6000km , which is early with synthetic, but I want to treat my baby nice. I always get the Fram Full synthetic oil filters - not because they are neccesarily better, but because they have the grip-tape around them, making it easier to remove.
So I changed the filter to an $11 Bosch filter, got the car good and warmed up, still low pressure. When I start it up and the oil is still thin, I've got about 50psi and as it warms up it just goes lower until it'S around 10psi at 2000rpm.
If it has a Fram oil filter on it (filter is located below the coolant expansion tank) then walk away.
After much searching and reading DIY threads, I didn't see any mention of springs for the filter. Your replies confirmed it so I was confident enough to throw the Bosch setup in the trash.
Don't use Fram oil filters. Motorcraft/Purolator, wix, bosch, mann, etc... are good.
Also stay the hell away from Fram and K&N oil filters. They're crap. Go for Wix or Bosch.
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