Engine oil OEM Toyota or OEM BMW

I bought a 2008 toyota yaris for $5.5k on fb marketplace. Had a prepurchase inspection.\n\nI love that car for the exact reasons you mentioned. It\u2019s been with me everywhere ive gone, is super cheap on gas, and just requires oil changes every 8000 km.

hey u/op ... if its not too late..\n\ndont drain the oil the normal way! the paint would be carried through the oil passages and possibly hardening in them.\n\nsince they poured/sprayed the paint through the opening, its all in that area.

3.0 n52 when I got the car it had 5w-30 and the oil was leaking slightly. Changed 5w-40 and the leak stopped all together. Engine is smooth as butter

5W-40 is my preferred viscosity for the N52. If you are only topping off, virtually any API SL or newer oil will work just fine. If you are doing a full change though you should source a 5W-40 that meets BMW’s LL-01 specification.

As long as it’s a LL-01, you can put that in. I’m currently running that on my N52.

10w60 is the only oil you should put in these. If nothing else, you can usually find it at BMW automobile dealerships as that is what they put in the M3/4 series (or at least used to). Not cheap, but a lot less expensive than engine rebuilds.

Always have done 10k on my ‘22 RAV4 hybrid, which equates to every five or six months (did the same on my ‘16 RAV4 hybrid as well), and do the same on my ‘12 Prius C I’ve had for 11 years now. No issues.

Stick to the 0w20 and 10,000 changes. My car has over 235,000 and uses zero oil between changes.

Just hard to read with fresh oil. 0-16 was impossible to read on the dipstick when new in my 2022 Camry. Even my 2011 Corolla is hard to read.

Oil leak. Thats my G20, had to fill like 3 times oil myself during 30 000 km. Went to service and apparently they found two separate oil leaks