Engine oil OEM Toyota or MOTUL

Looks fine to me, oil is relatively cheap, forget all the mileage crap and change it sooner if you are uncomfortable with the way it looks. I change my oil every 2000 miles, or whenever I go on or do heavy riding. I also switched over to Motul 7100 simply because it’s red and I can see exactly when it starts to discolor. A motorcycle mechanic told me the number one reason for engine failure is dirty oil so I started changing it frequently.

My 2009 1.33 likes both 5w30 (or 0w30) and 0w20. Out of the factory they came with 5w30, but toyota later recommended the switch with the 1.33 engine. With normal use and lower speeds 0w20 is best, if you drive a lot at higher rpms than 5w30 would be better (at130kmu/3200rpm 5w30 is smoother).

My 276k mile Xterra still trucks along with motul, every 3k miles.

changing the engine oil and using motuls 10w40 fixed it and getting mileage around 40.

I replaced the company oil to motul 10w40 engine oil, the changes weren't drastic but the milage and smoothness improved over the time

I've recently started using Motul 7100 10w40. Actually I'm due for my first change and should get under it today. It's the only pull I've ever used that actually made a noticable difference in operation. The esters bond and quiet the motor to a noticable audible level. It's designed for motorcycles though and with the unique properties of this ester based oil, I'm taking a chance with carbon build up, but the protection at higher rpms it provides gives me confidence under those conditions, which is where carbon is best loosened at too. Supposedly this burns fairly clean for a synthetic, but IDK. I'm changing at 3k miles to see how it looks. May or may not extend it out, but has felt great so far in this 135k mile motor.

I'm using motul x clean 5w40 for the last 15 years on my m54b22 and it s perfect. I tried also ravenol, liquimolly but motul was the best.

I'm on my first run of Motul 7100. It's ester based and has truly made a noticable difference in operation. It's made for motorcycles and their higher revs in mind, with the esters actually bonding to metal- not just a strong film. The drawback here is that from this bonding, the oil can be a bit stronger to burn off, but I didn't feel, like mentioned in another comment, that the internal temps on an RE can't burn that off. Just need to be sure to drive it like it's supposed to be, with high rpms. Instantly on first change I could notice quieter and smoother operation. I'm really not concerned about it not burning high enough, but as always, the most important thing is staying on top of oil changes routinely and timely. That is what truly kills most of these motors. In fact, I can't say I've really ever heard anyone lose a motor and say it was because "this" oil was used.. Unless it was something or some grade that shouldn't have been used at all in the first place.

I run 10w40 5100 motul now. on all bikes etc.

Clutch doesn't like the full syn stuff.

The only thing I noticed that my 03 Camry burns more oil when I was obsessed with 95, im usin 91 now though its still burning oil but not as much as 95.