Engine oil Mobil or VALVOLINE

VALVOLINE Engine oil

Just to share my experience on this oil, I am into my 2nd run on restore and protect (change oil at every 5000 miles interval), running 5w20, a 2010 pickup with 204800 miles. At about 3000 miles, the color of the lifters, spring and the walls became light chocolate brown, very noticeable, then I have noticed this oil is actually doing something.

Pros: helps to clean up deposits
Cons: oil drained off pitch black
Mileage: 5000 km
Comment
Is this review helpful?
source
Mobil Engine oil
afgan1984
  • Exhaust smoke:
Rating 5.0

I used to run 0W40 in Lexus IS250 (4GR-FSE engine) with great results, towards the end of it's life (maybe... the car was stolen at around 200k miles, so not sure when it actually died) it was burning little bit of oil when 5W30 was used. However, I have noticed that when I changed for 0W40, it has not burn any oil at all and oil was noticeably cleaner.

Pros: oil noticeably cleaner
Cons: cost, longevity
Vehicle: Lexus
Mileage: 200000 km
Comment
Is this review helpful?
source
VALVOLINE Engine oil

No issues at 150k on my 6. I do not worry but do run pea type injector cleaner every 3-5k and use quality oil that helps prevent off gas issues like Mobil 1 and Valvoline

Pros: quality oil, prevents issues
Vehicle: Mazda 6
Mileage: 150000 km
Comment
Is this review helpful?
source
VALVOLINE Engine oil

I have run the 5w-40 and stuff every day here in utah and it works fine on 300-400 bhp setups. If you are going to the strip or the dyno and going for probably 450-500 crank I would probably grab that gold top mobil one 15w-50. I would also use that for any road racing where the engine oil gets really thinned out from heat. It's also cheap at wal mart I believe. Over at 575-600 bhp we lost a main bearing when doing endurance testing on valve springs with the 5w-40 and very reasonable oil temps. It didn't really catastrophically fail, but was on it's way to it when we tore it down. Have since switched to VR1 20w-50, and the problem so far appears to be cured. That stuff will carry way more load then the thinner oils- the catch is that it's absolute sludge until warmed up. Yet another one of the barriers to extreme power "street" cars I suppose. I'm keeping an eye on it to see if we have a solution. If that doesn't fix it, the problem may be aeration of the oil- we were running at 7500+ for pretty long periods. So basically now the oiling system is a major focus of R&D for us. The oil pressure was never out of the ordinary- although it does start falling once past about 7500 rpms which is also not great.

Pros: works fine for 300-400 bhp
Cons: lost main bearing, sludge until warmed
Comment
Is this review helpful?
source
1 ... 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 ... 99

Write your review

Help others - share your experience with this part.

Other comparisons
Loading...