Brake pads OEM Toyota or OEM Honda

Rear brake pads and rotors will not have an effect on nor cause a master cylinder failure.

Max automotive in surprise is by far the best place I\u2019ve found. Super honest, very fair pricing, will not upsell you or tell you that you need extra things done. The closest I got to that was when I took the car in once it was past due on an oil change which I had planned to do myself but hadn\u2019t had the time to get to. He fixed the issue I came in for (breaks I think) and offered to do the oil change for free, just charged me like 15 bucks for the oil. I have an EV now but if I still had my Toyota truck I\u2019d take it to him in a heartbeat

Just last year I switched out the original Yokohama tires for Pirelli and this year I switched out the original front brake pads. My mechanic said the rear pads still has life in them so deal with it next time. I thought it would cost a lot, but it was just Toyota parts so price was $120 or so.... and its going to be another 10 years before needing another change assuming similar driving habits.

My 2005 Prius needed brakes, I paid $7 for pads and $12 for each rotor. That's $31 for pads and rotors.

Just dropped 4500 on brakes (rotors, fluid, pads), tyres, and an oil change on my 2022 Toyota Supra for regular maintenance.

I have the 2018 (CVT). Bought it secondhand. Daily driven + i already driven it back and forth sa Manila and Baguio 4-5x already this year. I already clocked in 8k sa odo, ang pinaka naging issue ko lang is napudpod na brake pads + motor ng wiper na nasira.

Needs brakes and suspension. Need new pads and rotors front and back and new calipers front and back as well, car is from a rust state and are pretty rusty. Needs new shocks all around as well since they're blown. With parts no labor I priced everything around 800 bucks.

Toyota Hilux 2018 185km- only thing i changed so far are tires, brakes, realignment(kapag lagi kang umaakyat sa pangit na daan) and drive train recently kakalaro daw ng shift stick.

I did have VTC rattle on startup but it went away before I could get around to fixing it. I also had the injectors fail, which were covered under that warranty recall. Also have a leak on the inside of the vehicle from a rear speaker gasket, that will be fixed when I get around to it in the coming weeks. I only learned I had a leak because the interior was moldy and moist. My brakes failed on track mostly likely due to me overheating them, and not properly cooling them down. I ended up melting the O ring on the piston itself. Never really got to diagnose what the issue really was just what I saw and felt. Replaced with "Integra Type R Big Brakes and a Mini Cooper Rotor". Somehow my compressor clutch wire was chopped in half, which caused me to replace the compressor. Though I probably could've just fixed the wires, but I already bought a new compressor so I just replaced it.

I disagree with most on daily driving the 80. I find it reasonably accessible to drive regularly with one exception: the brakes. Most people are used to their cars stopping at a moments notice and the stock brakes in the 80s suck.