Brake pads OEM Subaru or Duralast

I just put Duralast Elite Ceramic pads and Duralast Gold rotors on my 2017 5.0 and have been very pleased with them. While not physically measured I’m of the opinion stopping distance has been reduced. Everything you need is in the box and rotors are coated to resist corrosion and have no film to remove before installation.

Did all brakes and rotors with top duralast gold and heavy duty ceramic pads- maybe 600

Duralast Friction Ceramic Brake Pads D1766 front 49.99 back 39.99 old pad and a harbor frieght C clamp 8.99 98.27 guesstimation on sales tax 104.97 total/

I’ve always run Dynamic Friction or Centric myself. I have no complaints from either brand, both preform well, quiet, seem to last (which will obviously vary by how much you’re driving/stopping), and they get the job done.

I had warp issues with my 2010 Sport MT until I bought these pads and rotors from AutoZone: Duralast Elite pads DE1394 and Duralast Gold rotor 3295DG. This was two years ago and parts were $160 and labor was $80/hour (cheap around here...Philly) for a total around $300.

I'm only now replacing the pads & rotors *for the first time* during my ownership. The rotors won't pass inspection, but I'm shocked to find that the pads still have 7/32"-8/32" left. As it turns out, I've been running Duralast Gold rotors & Duralast Elite pads the entire time.

That's a phenomenal track record for the amount of "spirited" road I put past this car.

I’m my 2019 Forester, I hit 70k miles without changing either fronts and rears. The fronts now need to be done. Hard to argue against OEM with that performance.

Only ever used the gold pads but they seem fine, nothing special but not unsafe either.

I have an old groupe A Subaru homologation car. It’s on its 6th engine which is also currently blown. There are NO MORE ENGINES. NONE. ZERO. NADA. NOTHING. So now I have to buy a crashed wrx and swap the whole drivetrain over if I want the car to move under its own power. My frs just……… I mean…… 250 in brake pads and fluid, and 500 bucks in tires. Oh and a 90$ oil change before and after.

How were the brakes? My concern with towing is the brakes. I have not towed anything mainly for this reason. I find the brakes to be a weak point of the car and the rear pads wear out very quickly, on the 2013 version anyway. I am not a heavy footed driver, no fast starts, no slamming of brakes at lights and stop signs. Keep things nice and smooth, no riding of brakes, no fast corners which would engage the rear brakes more due to the vector control system (whatever they call it). Rear brakes wear fast and overall braking is fair. Your thoughts from a trailer perspective? Thx!!!