81
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780
Owners' choice:
81
No data
780
Owners' choice:
I got my rotors turned and threw some hawks in it. HPS I think. No issues and they have good bite.
I run non-oem pads on my t6 but that’s because I like more initial bite when I step on the brakes. I use Hawk street performance pads. They definitely make more dust and sometimes more noise than OE pads.
Two rotors=$100. Set of pads about $50. Couple wrenches, jack and jack stands.
I thought I had a bleed/bore issue because my hydro wouldn't lock up under full force, turns out the stock style break pads were not sufficient to lock it up (even though stock pads work to lock rear wheels on foot brake). I switched over to Hawk HP+ pads and that did the trick for me.
All 10th gen civics do this.. 10th gen accord, and we've noticed it on some 11th gen civics, too... There was an updated pad that's supposed to help with it..
Running Hawk DTC 30s on a Mustang (3800 lbs with me) both front and rear. I brake hard and the car is heavy. The pads don't glaze nor fade. Wear is OK.
I daily DTC-60s and they're surprisingly not that noisy.
I run Hawk HPS 5.0 they are good but we're spongy even after the recommended break in. I ended up doing a run and intentionally abusing the brakes to get them good and hot to the point that they faded. After that, they were great.
I haven’t heard of fake brake pads but be careful. The main reason I’m commenting is HP+ pads might be good for autox but if you have experience on track, I’d avoid. Granted, my experience using them was on a 2015 WRX but you can overheat the pads pretty quickly on a heavy braking circuit.
I did two track days on these new hawk hp+ brake pads and Zimmerman rotors. After the first track day, something weird started happening: I started hearing the squealing that I hear while breaking even when I’m not breaking. It’s not constant, but it’s coming from all four wheels and is mostly heard at low speeds, especially after starting to drive after coming to a complete stop. These are two track days in. Should I be worried?
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