Brake pads OEM BMW or OEM Mazda

Best things I did for my g80 was 1) Mishimoto skid plate to protect my oil cooler 2)Ceramic brake pads because the red dust that will engulf the lower half of your car after a 1/2 mile drive is insane.

Mazda 6 Wagon Turbo Diesel.

I'm driving it into the ground ???? but loving every km I drive.

Brakes are the next job, I'm considering an upgrade to slotted rotors and better pads.

'23 Turbo Meridian with only routine maintenance needed at just under 34K miles. Will likely need brakes at next oil change, but no issues or repairs needed to this point.

I’ve two cars, a V6 sedan and a Mazda exactly like this. I depended mostly on my Mazda, which I’ve had for 3 years with an automatic transmission. I absolutely love it- it has never let me down. It always starts and goes, and I’ve even left it idling for hours many days with no issues. Apart from brake pads and regular oil changes, I haven’t had to do anything to it.

I've been driving it with a Stage 2 tune for 4 years and put another 50,000km on it and I've had 0 repairs. Maintenance is more expensive of course, bigger tires, bigger brakes, more oil, it all adds up but the B58 is super reliable.

I have a 2016 435i with several mods (Pureturbos Stage 2 hybrid turbocharger, MHD Pure OTS 93 octane tune, XHP stage 3 transmission tune, CTS catless downpipe, BMS cold air intake, BC racing BR coilovers) at 138000 miles that i purchased september 2024. Within the first year of ownership i had to repair/replace brake-pads&rotors, radiator piping, a/c compressor, spark plug and coils, driver-side rear be damper, abs sensor, driver-side headlight day-time running lights and Engine undershield.

And even the normal things they need are a little pricier than on normal cars; you might need ($300) brake pads and ($1,000) brake rotors in 50,000 or 60,000 miles instead of just ($250) brake pads.

You bought a BMW and now have to pay to keep it running and this is what it costs.

The steering was the worst of all the cars I tried. Engine was fabulous but transmission not very responsive. Handling and suspension usability range were solid but the killer for this car was the really soft, weak brakes.

the brakes just didn't like slowing from 140 to 90, even though that's something I regularly do on the highway - it doesn't like it then either, but it was scarier on track. What I mean by "the brakes didn't like it" is that after one or maximum 2 hard brakes, the pedal and steering wheel transmit a horrible vibration everytime I even touch the brakes, and this goes on until I presume the brakes have either cooled off, or the rotors have bent themselves back into shape.