I ran stock rotors for a long time with carbotech xp10/8, front brake ducts, stainless lines, and Motul 660. The XP10/8 + ducts was sufficient for 20min session the tracks I drive.
I'm using carbotech xp8 on my 3800 pound sedan. They've survived 6 days at the track plus occasional driving around town for a year.
Hey, I track. MK7.5! The floating calipers flex which means you get more pressure on the outer half of the rotor. It's annoying but it's not a problem in my experience.
Something like a Carbotech XP12 pad might do better with the heat but adding brake ducts from the RS3 is cheap and will help quite a bit.
Girodisc should have a 357mm disc available when you've gone through the OE rotors. They're slotted instead of drilled and are 2 piece (aluminum hat).
I am currently using Carbotech XP10's in front and the XP8's for the rears. I really like them and have not had an issue so far. Plus the company has great customer service. They are definitely NOT a street pad, and I need to swap them the night before a track meet and put street pads on the day after, but the effort is worth it.
I just replaced my pads all around with Carbotech so i get majorly reduced brake dust and just OEM rotors.
If you KNOW you're going to be doing a lot of track days, you definitely want to go straight to some full blown track pads, at least for when you're at the track, along with fluid.
With the XP8s I had, I left early and bed my pads in on the way to the track.
Running Carbotech XP8 and XP10 here. They’re great on track, and also very usable on the street. I’m currently not switching back to my EBC Yellowstuff pads because the Carbotechs aren’t bad enough on the street to justify me switching pads (yes I’m a being a little lazy). They dust like mad though and are quite squeaky.
Is it a reasonable price? No not really. Can you just do it at home in the driveway? If you have a driveway, and it's nice if you have someone around who's done it before who can remind you to do things like properly torque the bolts instead of just "by feel" if you're new to this, or add a little anti-seize on the hub so you can get it off in 5 years, without giving you silly quirky advice like a lot of YouTubers like to do to try and make themselves slightly different. What _should_ you do? My suggestion is call a few local shops (even Ford dealerships if you want). Tell them you've got some rotors and pads (order some standard ones off of Rock Auto) and ask what they would charge to install it. Call 5 places, ignore the most and least expensive ones, and if the remainders pick the one you like the look of (check online reviews, see how long they've been in business, etc). Every mechanic has been changing brakes since they were 12, but you want one who looks like they care about their work. A good mechanic with a 2 post lift should be able to do a Mustang brake job in like 20 minutes if they tried to. They'll actually take about an hour and be careful about it. They'll charge you some "standard" hours regardless of clock time because they need to pay for their shop etc. It's cheaper to do it yourself, but not everyone _wants_ to do it themselves, or trusts themselves to learn something from YouTube videos that their life depends on every day.
Brakes are too touchy, more than any other vehicle I've driven.
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