Brake pads Carbotech or Bosch

Carbotech Brake pads

I've been to 20 track events to this day I'm still running OEM calipers. Just carbotech pads. You don't need a big brake kit at all. The oem cracks because of improper cooldown. I learned that after a session to take my cooldown lap seriously and ever since then i stopped cracking AutoZone rotors

Pros: no need for BBK, stopped cracking rotors
Vehicle: Honda S2000
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Carbotech Brake pads
autovelo
  • Braking:
Rating 4.0

I ran stock rotors for a long time with carbotech xp10/8, front brake ducts, stainless lines, and Motul 660. The XP10/8 + ducts was sufficient for 20min session the tracks I drive.

Pros: sufficient for track sessions
Vehicle: Honda S2000
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Bosch Brake pads
TrowaB3
  • Braking:
Rating 4.0

I got the Bosche pads. I think they were in a higher category than daily but the front+back together ended up being cheaper then other brands I was looking at. Just make sure you get ones clearly labeled front or back, and Japan built.

Pros: cheaper than other brands
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Bosch Brake pads

I replaced front pads and rotors on my Tiguan, and afterwards, when going between D <-> R and applying the brakes, the first brake application causes a "clack" on both sides at the front. Pads are Bosch 1633A. spring clips (integral to pads) are seated properly. Pads and rotors were bedded properly. Wheel lug bolts torqued properly. I have the official instructions from VW. I've probably done ~20 brake jobs in my life, mostly Volvos (over half of those were sliding-caliper designs like the Tiguan's). What I tried (with no success): searching and searching and searching forums, only found 2 other people with a similar issue on FCP's Brake Replacement YouTube video measured and compared all latereral dimensions of the pad's plate between new and old, same dimensions re-installed the pads all bolts are torqued properly (caliper carrier 200 Nm; caliper pin bolts 35 Nm) found a Tech Bulletin from VW that mentions there are inner- and outer-specific orientation for the pads. This appears to apply only to the Genuine (labeled TRW) pads, as all 3 Bosch pads are identical in every way that I can discern bought a set of Genuine VW pads (labeled VW), ensured the correct orientation of pads according to the Tech Bulletin, and they still clack. pad backing plate dimensions are the same as the Bosch. Ack! More money! bought a set of genuine caliper carriers (with the thinking that perhaps when I wire-wheeled the old caliper carriers to remove rust, it took off too much material). I didn't install them because I measured all the dimensions that interface with the pads and the new are identical to the old.

Pros: pads and rotors bedded properly, bolts torqued properly
Cons: causes a "clack" on both sides
Part number: 1633A
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Bosch Brake pads
circular_file
  • Braking:
  • Noise:
Rating 2.0

For my (owned 3 years, purchased used) 2014 Honda Crosstour I've always had to grind down the edges of the pad mounting plate tabs on Bosch brakes a couple of mm to get it to fit into the calipers. I have just received a new set, and while I still had to grind down the edges to get them to slide into the calipers, the top and bottom edges were MUCH shorter than the previous pads. So much so that when braking after reversing direction, the pads will shift in the calipers with a noticeable 'click' as the brake pads engage the disks to slow the car and are thus moved to the other end of the caliper. The overlap between the brake pad plate and the 'C' in the caliper where the tab meets the caliper is only 2mm or so. Definitely less than I am comfortable with.

Pros: always functioned perfectly
Cons: pads shift, noticeable click
Vehicle: Honda Crosstour
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