Brake discs Centric or OEM BMW

My solution is to always use top of the line brake pads like PFC 11s or raybestos st43 and up.

The other thing I ended up doing is once I really started being able to push the car hard, I installed Porsche 911 993 air deflectors on the lower control arms and that increased airflow was just enough to let me get away with keeping the small brakes. This past weekend I was at VIR and I was getting up to 130 on the straights, even bumping up against the rev limiter in fifth before braking for roller coaster, and the brakes held up fine. That and $30 RockAuto centric rotors.

Rock auto it legit. The power stop bundle is nice. For my accord, I usually go with centric rotors and akebono brake pads.

Just got oem centric with ceramic pads for my 14 GS350.

Rock autos fine enough for brakes, personally I use the centric coated blanks, I run the hawk 5.0 pads, but for a DD I'd recomend factory pads or ceramic.

I previously ran project mu hc+ and Winmax W3 pads separately on the street for daily duty before. All of the brakes i mentioned were on blank rotors with the best rotors, in terms of price and corrosion resistance being the premium centric blank rotors.

Track pads and the basic Centric rotors. Get the Boomba air deflectors that mount on the control arms and remove your dust shields.

I ran G-LOC pads with Castrol SRF with this setup and had my rotors glowing with minimal fade at Gingerman.

Cheap Centric blank rotors, Castrol SRF fluid, and G-LOC track pads will change your mind on brake performance. For dailying, I run Stoptech Sport pads on Centric blank rotors, still with SRF.

I had the Centric rotors for both the front and rears. I'm replacing the rears Cemtrics next week which have 48k km on them with Raybestos Element 3s because they are highly recommended here and I wanted to try something different. I have a feeling my rear centric rotors have been ruined by the akebono pads which I think have gone down to the metal and are creating a groove in the rotor. Sad that this is all happening at only 48k km.

Non-PP, Centric coated rotors front and rear, Endless MX-72 front and EBC Yellowstuff rear, with ATE Type 200 fluid. They are fine for street and autocross but would probably not be good enough for the track.

If that's a factory BMW floating rotor keep a very close eye on that. Have seen more than one of those come apart (crack gets to edge, ring breaks away from hat), locks a wheel and full sends you in that direction towards the barriers.... Good buddy totaled his z4m and did like 6-7k of armco damage when that happened