Brake discs Centric or Duralast

I use Duralast Gold rotors on my two endurance race cars - they are great. I wouldn't expect the basic ones to be anything special, but they should work just fine.

Rock auto it legit. The power stop bundle is nice. For my accord, I usually go with centric rotors and akebono brake pads.

Just got oem centric with ceramic pads for my 14 GS350.

Rock autos fine enough for brakes, personally I use the centric coated blanks, I run the hawk 5.0 pads, but for a DD I'd recomend factory pads or ceramic.

I previously ran project mu hc+ and Winmax W3 pads separately on the street for daily duty before. All of the brakes i mentioned were on blank rotors with the best rotors, in terms of price and corrosion resistance being the premium centric blank rotors.

Track pads and the basic Centric rotors. Get the Boomba air deflectors that mount on the control arms and remove your dust shields.

I ran G-LOC pads with Castrol SRF with this setup and had my rotors glowing with minimal fade at Gingerman.

Cheap Centric blank rotors, Castrol SRF fluid, and G-LOC track pads will change your mind on brake performance. For dailying, I run Stoptech Sport pads on Centric blank rotors, still with SRF.

I had the same issue with my 2017 SEL-P - went with Centric high carbon rotors and akebono pads. No more issues. The factory pads and rotors are crap. Passengers think I can't modulate brakes in the parking lot as it stops abruptly.

Non-PP, Centric coated rotors front and rear, Endless MX-72 front and EBC Yellowstuff rear, with ATE Type 200 fluid. They are fine for street and autocross but would probably not be good enough for the track.

I did the fronts with \"Duralast.\" They produced a HORRIBLE shudder when braking. I replaced them with the same this and the issue was the same. So, I bought OEM pads/rotors and the issued COMPLETELY went away.