Battery OEM Honda or OEM FORD

OEM FORD Battery
Mabnat
  • Indicator:
Rating 4.5

In my car (2021 Mach E AWD with standard battery), the battery state of health the first time I checked it was around 94% at around 48,000 kilometers. I’m not sure how accurate the car’s data is because it seemed to drop a percentage or so immediately after a couple of OTA updates. It sat at around 92% until between 80,000 km and 113,000 km, but now it’s says 92.5% at 120,000 km. Again, I’m not entirely confident at how accurate the car’s information is, but my range is still about the same as when it was brand new. I think I’m past any danger of manufacturing defects, so I don’t have any reason to suspect that the battery won’t easily last a couple hundred of thousand kilometers more.

Pros: range still same, battery will last long
Cons: SOH dropped after updates, accuracy uncertain
Vehicle: Ford
Mileage: 120000 km
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OEM FORD Battery
mikedvb
  • Cranking:
Rating 4.0

I replaced the battery in my '16 F150 last year - I'd say it had a good run. Went with another OE battery since the original lasted so long.

Pros: good run, lasted long
Vehicle: Ford
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OEM FORD Battery

Even in the colder weather now, I'd be getting 400+ km on a full charge in my BEV (Mustang Mach e). But I only charge once a week (Fri night), to 80% to help with battery life; costs about $3 per week to get an extra 200-300km.

Pros: 400+ km on full charge
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OEM Honda Battery
EFDriver
  • Cranking:
Rating 5.0

My '11 Fit had a aftermarket 151R battery. Mine occasionally produced a similar noise such as this on cold day starts. I think the noise stems from the starter, perhaps the starter solenoid that doesn't retract after you release the key from start position. My issue went away after I replaced the battery

Pros: issue went away
Cons: noise on cold starts
Vehicle: Honda Fit
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OEM Honda Battery

Yes, very true. The closest you get to 100% SoC, the more the battery degrades. The ideal SoC would be at around 50-60%. But 80% is also good. (My EV has its lowest limit at 80%).

Pros: 80% is good
Cons: battery degrades at 100%
Vehicle: Honda
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OEM FORD Battery

Sodium ion has about half the volumetric and gravimetric energy density. Li will remain king in the EV space for a long time to come.

Cons: half the energy density
Vehicle: Ford
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OEM FORD Battery

A friend of mine had a 2010 ( or 2009 ) Fusion Hybrid that needed a new battery, he went to the dealer and he was quoted over $8K. He then found $3K 'aftermarket' batteries and at the end he was able to find a shop that did the whole thing for under $2.5K.

Pros: found cheaper alternatives
Cons: dealer quote expensive
Vehicle: Ford Fusion
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OEM Honda Battery
fanz0rz
  • Indicator:
Rating 1.0

I have two Honda City and the first one had the battery changed after the first year, I knew this wasn't normal and Honda insisted that's perfectly normal.

It all boils down to the idling stop feature, to allow that feature these cars use a specific type of battery, but even then the idling stop completely destroys the battery, on top of being useless.

Cons: idling stop destroys battery
Vehicle: Honda City
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OEM Honda Battery
Spearitgun
  • Cranking:
  • Lights:
Rating 1.0

Honda batteries suck in general, bought a brand new one from the dealer and it was dead and wouldn't take a charge lol. I was willing to pay the extra cash for oem because I thought it would be better. Nope,

Cons: dead on arrival, wouldn't charge
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