Battery Duracell or Duralast

I ended up going to batteries plus, getting a Duracell battery that they installed and warranty for 3 years ago for about $300.

I put in an 850 cca 800 amp battery and the old one (Duracell or something I think) I replaced was a 900cca battery. Old one was h8. I replaced with an h7 because thats what fcp euro said was the right size for my car. That was the issue. Took it out and replaced with and H8 and it was still in limp mode! Got my code reader out and cleared the codes and restarted and everything works great now

You need this one, and it takes about 10 minutes to install. Just hop into the front trunk, unbolt the bar from the firewall that braces the battery -- iirc 13mm. Remove the tire inflator and the box (pulls right out), remove the other bolt, unscrew the two terminals (10mm probably), swap batteries. Done.

These parts are New. Battery duralast gold

I still prefer Duracell.

Just had a 5yo Napa battery die, put a new Duralast Platinum Elite in there, back to running normal except 2 things: 1/ Random engine fan activation seems to be what killed the previous battery. Still happening.

Drive a 2018 Nissan Rogue, about 80k miles. Have a Duralast Gold battery from Oct 2023, but live in central Texas where I hear batteries don't last as long.

Duralast is almost always johnson controls, made in mexico.

Last December, the OEM battery died and I replaced it with a new Duralast battery from AutoZone. Fast forward to today, the car wouldn\u2019t start at all. Had to jump it just to get it running and drove straight to AutoZone to get it tested.\n\nBattery tested good. Starter tested good.\nBut the alternator failed, specifically the charging current test.

Duracell [battery] with a 3 year free replacement warranty. Last one failed unusually early, just short of 3 years