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I did just replace the battery in the Trans Am in the fall after 15 years (bought when I picked the car up - I really got my money's worth on that Duralast). It had never been on a tender and that car sees maybe 1500 miles in a big year. But of course it also has virtually zero parasitic drain. I didn't even realize how weak it was progressively getting until I had a no start moving it out of the garage for a wash. It started so much easier on the new batt, I was actually laughing.
I'm about to replace the battery on my 2013 acura tl 3.5L, looking for some advice on choosing between two batteries. The two batteries im looking at are the ACDelco Advantage 24FS or the Duralast ProPower Plus 24F-DL. They are similar in specs, same CCA though the duralast does have about 100 more cranking amps and 17 minutes more of reserve time. The acdelco comes with 18month warranty while the duralast has 2 years.
The other one (duralast one) has a better cca and will perform better in the winter months.
Duracell flooded lead acid would be a good choice and around $200.
I bought Duracell from Sams club. relatively easy coding with OBD11
This is really straightforward to do. I replaced mine last September and was concerned about coding or needing to go to the dealer. My 2017 required none of that. Just take the old battery out and put a new one in. You'll have dash lights on afterwards, but all you need to do is turn the wheel all the way to one side and then the other.
I replaced mine in my driveway with a same size AutoZone Duralast Gold. With a coupon, I was out the door for less than $200. The car wintered outdoors at a Vermont ski resort and always started.
I’ve replaced several Duracell batteries recently that had been recently installed within the last few month. We’ve had good luck with power sonic, yusa, and first power.
Duracell killed 6 pieces of electronics of mine over 10 years. If you paid me, I would not use them.
We refuse to buy Duracell. They leak and are awful. Never again.
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