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The tech who replaced my alternator (@10K mi) left his permanent fingerprints on my hood...have to try to buff it out. Apart from the bad alternator documented in another thread (hopefully a one-off), the car has been great (especially in winter) - no leaks, no sunroof issues, buzzing, rattling, vibrations, etc.
First, if your alternator is putting out 13.8V while the car is running, your alternator is fine. Period. If your battery passes a load test after being fully charged, it is fine.
The MK2 alternator setup has a fatter bolt than the Mk1 alternator uses. I've seen how the thinner bolt eventually wears into the alternator and it doesn't sit straight. The MK2 alternator setup also scoots the alternator closer to the timing belt end of the engine, giving a little more room by the radiator and a shorter shaft means less torque on the bearings. You'll need the MK2 alternator wiring,.. I just bolt it to the starter.
My 93 vw cabriolet is running an oem alternator from the factory.
so far the alternator seams to be working. I cut and then put ends on the red wires and bolted them up. I put my multi meter on one of the two prongs on the clip and grounded the other. then turn the alt motor. the one prong that raised up was my exciter wire.
Also, it seems that it is a 120 amp alternator, so you might want to re-think using the Stock Rabbit harness and, instead, run a bigger cable, since the Rabbit alternators were 60 amps max.
My Rabbit's alternator lasted a solid 40,000 miles!
I'm surprised Mazda is rated so poorly, I had a Mazda MPV for 8 years and honestly the only problem I had was the driver's side window gear was worn out, and the alternator.
alright guys...i charged the battery and it started right up...put my meter on the batter with it running and it just kept going down in voltage over a 10 min span...so i would say the alt is bad...
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