Alternator OEM Mazda or OEM Volkswagen

The high rev voltage must be over 14 volts, so if not, then its the alternator. But make sure all connections clean and greased.

Eurovan exhibited similar behavior. Start and run fine until.... engine would lose power. Pull over and would die. Restart would be nothing. Sit for an hour or so and could restart and could get the few miles to home. Next day things could be normal or a repeat of slow down and die. This went on for a couple of weeks. The last fail found the battery to be toast even though only a year old. OK, so new battery. All good for the next few days then the gremlins return. New battery is now no good. Determined the alternator had developed enough play that when warm would start to short creating more heat and more of a short allowing it to eat the battery. New alternator and another new battery and all is and has been good.

At 48K miles I experienced an alternator fail (car was running great at the time).

check the charging at the battery while the car is running about 2000 or 2200 rpm with multimeter. The alternator should be charging at 14 volts (give or take a little)

When I had mine I had to replace the alternator just outside of warranty.

I've had 3 issues with the car: 3. recently - replace alternator (the car just knows I'm about to retire it).

even a simple job like changing the alternator is difficult due to where they place it. There's not a ton of space to work on the car in the engine bay.

Just a shitty alternator

My 2020 Mazda cx30 has a bad alternator at 47,000 miles. Bought this car about a month and a half ago. Wondering if this is a typical thing for Mazdas alternators to go out fast.

Have been burned by aftermarket alternators. I'll spend the money for an OEM every time.