Alternator OEM FORD or OEM BMW

I've replaced the alternator (failed on me), done waterpump & thermostat (180,000km done as a precaution).

2021 Got the extended warranty, one year after the standard warranty went, so did my alternator. Extended warranty covered it.

My alternator went and I never had any lights, just weird electrical gremlins and batteries dying. Replaced it myself, took maybe 2 hours and the part was like $150 after the core return

you dont even need ISTA to figure out the alternator is dead. A fresh and charged batter will sit at 13v, used should always be around 12v. while charging it should be 13v. the fact this is dropping while the car is running suggests a shot alternator right off the bat

OEM. I've had to warranty and eat so much labor from faulty auto parts store starters and alternators it's unreal. They cost more, but I rarely have an issue with OEM.

Sometimes when u replace the alternator but the battery is bad it'll just fry your new alternator.

I ended up getting a new one from BMW after two remans failed with once catastrophically failing and catching fire almost burning up my car.

My neighbor had a Ford mustang and he had to jump start it about once a week. I checked the alternator and it had power when the car was off. Bad diode.

I have a shitty looking Ford Focus that I maintain myself...The alternator failed and I couldn't be bothered doing the work myself so I took it to the local dealer.

I haven't had this problem with my RX8, but I had a similar problem with my Ford. Alternator was putting out 14.4V, but I still had a light. Took it to the parts store and they hooked it up to their tester. It said the Alternator was no good.