Alternator Bosch or OEM Volvo

Fcp euro, Bosch alternator for less than $400 including core charge, free shipping. Lifetime replacement. Believe it’s 5% off 250+ currently as well. Bosch is the OE supplier, no aftermarket concerns.

I ended up getting a new Bosch AL49X from Bavarian Autosport (back in the day). IIRC, I needed to purchase a new pulley and fan since the old ones were Valeo and incompatible with Bosch. I sort of remember also needing a different / non-standard belt length.

Mine turned out to be a 60/90A by Valeo, replaced it with an OEM 100A BOSCH refurbisged one for like... 150 bucks, send in the old one and got fiddy bucks back. Was for sure a pretty colid upgrade and You even feel a difference in the Performance.

I know my 2005 S60 alternator has a chip in it that is necessary to talk to the car's ECU so be careful buying aftermarket.

Assuming this is a T5 (5cyl) that price is about right for the dealer. I had my alternator replaced under warranty about 2 years ago and the billed price was right about 1350 for just the alt replacement.

*Hella* is €216 to €380, *Bosch* is €212 to €432. Location: Germany, "*autodoc"* website

I own the exact car, when I bought it, it came with a bad replacement alternator. The replacement was an eBay brand which was causing all sorts of faults. I replaced it with a Bosch unit and the car seemed fine. A few weeks after the replacement, I started getting a random limp mode with various under and over voltage errors. At this point I decided to buy and install a BMW branded alternator. This took care of issue.

I tried to correct with a new and proper group size battery - it had an OE 140A Bosch alternator and starter with a 2016 El Cheapo battery that was one group size too small so I replaced the H5 with a new H6 group and all was good for a few days... I also replaced the starter just because I like to spend $ and wanted a clean slate as this a vehicle I intend to keep and drive daily as needed. The new battery/starter work great but I noticed right away that the voltage while at idle was now almost a full 2 volts lower than before changing any of the afore mentioned parts. I have a P3 dash vent gage that reads to 0.1V and I use a VOM plus VCDS so I know the P3 reads OK. Before changing any parts the P3 read 13.5 to 14.4 volts steady depending upon what accessories were on. After the H6 battery the P3 read 11.5 to 12.5 volts under the same driving conditions. I tried to get the OE alternator bench tested but that did not work so I just went with a new reman Bosch unit. No change in voltage with the new alt... So this past weekend the motor fired up just fine and the dash vent P3 gage display was 12.5V but while driving around town running errands the voltage kept dropping all the way down to 9.0V which caused the DSG to lock and basically leave me stranded miles from home. I will try to get the entire electrical system load tested this weekend but for now I just keep a tender on the batter at night as I do not drive much during the week nor do I commute. The tender keeps the battery at 13.0V reliably.

On my '93 240, I used a 740 external regulator Bocsh alternator...100amps...the problem is is that the voltage regulator takes a dump, which leads to people replacing the entire unit (like me years ago).

FWIW I bought an oreilly\u2019s remanufactured for my e34 a few years ago. It failed and was replaced twice in two years until I just bought the Bosch from FCP. No issues since.