Alternator Bosch or OEM Volvo

The V8s are good. I've had 2 pulleys/bearings go bad. The second failed completely, dropping the aux belt and damaging the timing cover. If you hear any weird noises from the engine bay, check your pulleys.

They're also not as bad on fuel as you'd expect. I've regularly seen 25mpg+ on a good run.

ABS modules and siren modules always fail, but are relatively cheap & easy to replace. Alternators also seem to be a weak point and are _really_ awkward to get to.

Instead of waiting for it to go bad on me should I order the $200 Bosch one off rockauto now (shipping takes 3-5 days) if I don\u2019t then I\u2019m stuck going and paying for that at a parts store. The Bosch one also comes with a 2 year warranty and roadside assistance if anything goes wrong with it.

I replaced the alternator on a 2013 XC60 T6, which was driven by a coupler. The Bosch unit had a drive pulley (not really a pulley) already attached.

I bought a good-quality Bosch Reman alternator for my 2012 Mazda and it cost me $128+$75 core ($203) from RockAuto.

I got a Bosch reman (listed as Denso)... so far so good.

90% is the alternator: get a reman Bosch. The "squeaky serpentine belt" is actually the bearings inside the alternator on their last legs.

Alternator died on a trail and I got a reman Bosch unit (180A) and put a new battery in. I\u2019m getting a load of codes that I\u2019ll drop below, but I\u2019m wondering if you ever figured it out?

It’s either Bosch or Valeo.

Bosch has a high failing rate unfortunately not like the good old days.

I bought an aftermarket bosch alternator, (new not refurbished) and after installing the pulley to 80NM (black part), I noticed a wobble and a brushing sound. The original alternator does not have this brushing sound.