Alternator Bosch or OEM Nissan

Changed it for another OEM Bosch new (not reman). Subsequent test showed it was now good.

I got BOSCH AL113M from Adv auto (with a code cost me about 80), then went to tractor supply and got several large washers. I took the pulley off my old alt and put it on the new long-nose alt, stacking washers until it lined up.

So my just-installed today reman Bosch SR33X turns the light off with a very slight blip to 1200rpm.

I went with the cheaper Bosch unit myself for my M3, and it's been working well for the past 4k miles.

If the belt was melted to the alternator pulley, there was enough friction to melt the rubber. Simple answer, replace the alternator.

Also, my 90A Bosch alternator is about the same size and weight as my old 65A Bosch alternator. Going to a 90A alternator is a great cheap mod.

I pulled the alternator to have it tested at o'reillys. Test showed it was dead so I bought a reman'd Bosch, but still needed a jump. Car fired up right away, but the voltage gauge still read low and just slowly dropped until the car died again.

Funny thing is, the Bosch alt. I had in the car at the time is sitting in the car in my driveway. Okay, I replaced the brush pack a few times. The 90 Amp alt. itself is at least 10 years old, if not more.

So, OK, ended up getting a Bosch Reman from IMC, installed it to find out it was only producing 10Volts @ idle. Took it back out, and installed an Ultima which put out 14Volts @ idle.

We have been having a lot of trouble with Bosch reman alternators and starters in the last couple years. Pretty sad, used to be great stuff. Now all the boxes say made in china and everything is crap.