Alternator Bosch or GENERAL MOTORS

I'm guessing you could be Australian the labour charge would be somewhere between 120 and 150 per hour plus parts which retail close to 550 for a good quality Bosch unit so your not too far off the mark with the quote.

I have only rudimentary experience working on cars, but I got the OEM Bosch for like 300 (less core return deposit after I mailed back the old core). Took me about an hour or so to replace myself.

I only trust OEM, Denso, Valero, and Hitachi. Bosch isn't too bad.

I have one. I replaced a Bosch with it. Hasn't had an issue and had a lifetime warranty.

Yes. I had one on my e39 (M54) for a long time. Probably put close to 75k miles on it before I sold it. It was the Bosch variant. No issues with it at all. In fact, it appeared to be a Bosch reman in an Autozone box. Hard to tell what the internals were but they looked exactly the same.

If anyone is curious, the 120a Bosch and Valeo alternators (rectangle ground connection) are completely interchangeable despite the statements online saying they have different pullies and mounting points. They are slightly different but everything lines/bolts up the same. The Bosch (left) is a decent amount larger in size, not sure why, but it fits perfectly with no clearance issues.

13V is normal for a stock Bosch alternator. There are 14V or adjustable voltage regulator available as a replacement.

Im having the same issue with my 08 jetta 2.5, replaced the alternator and voltage regulator because the car battery wasnt charging anymore. Anyways replaced the alternator and then I had a high voltage issue with the regulator

I had a bosch alternator in my Mark 2.. 8valve motor. I noticed the battery was not being charged. so instead of dealing with the voltage regulator or brushes etc, b/c the unit was old I decided to go with a brand new one.

I when my original alternator failed in my 540i/6, the replacement rebuilt Bosch unit would produce 13.5-13.7v for a while after the car had warmed up, then would gradually fall to less than battery voltage. Running the A/C and revving the engine at stoplights would keep the battery light from flickering, but eventually, it would show full symptoms of a dead charging system.