Alternator Bosch or Denso

Fcp euro has an 100amp bosch one that works well. They have a lifetime warranty too.

rebuilt my oem denso to avoid buying those other brands, they generally are very hit or miss and dont have a good warranty to back them up. denso all the way, i would buy one for my car if they were still available.

The Denso will last the longest, but I have a habit of buying the local store brand only because they give you a no-questions-asked lifetime warranty.

Funny enough, I just did this dance today! Found a nearly new looking Bosch unit that someone had already kindly removed from the wrecker's car for me. Got it installed and tested exactly like yours though, so I'm happy.

I would go OEM or get a Denso from Rockauto since Honda's alternator is kind of sensitive.

I just replaced the alternator on my 09, it cost me $190 for the part (Denso refurb - shipped, including taxes) from Rockauto.

Denso alternator was like $350 and it took us like 3 hours as total novices and that includes the 3 trips we ended up taking to NAPA.

I tried to correct with a new and proper group size battery - it had an OE 140A Bosch alternator and starter with a 2016 El Cheapo battery that was one group size too small so I replaced the H5 with a new H6 group and all was good for a few days... I also replaced the starter just because I like to spend $ and wanted a clean slate as this a vehicle I intend to keep and drive daily as needed. The new battery/starter work great but I noticed right away that the voltage while at idle was now almost a full 2 volts lower than before changing any of the afore mentioned parts. I have a P3 dash vent gage that reads to 0.1V and I use a VOM plus VCDS so I know the P3 reads OK. Before changing any parts the P3 read 13.5 to 14.4 volts steady depending upon what accessories were on. After the H6 battery the P3 read 11.5 to 12.5 volts under the same driving conditions. I tried to get the OE alternator bench tested but that did not work so I just went with a new reman Bosch unit. No change in voltage with the new alt... So this past weekend the motor fired up just fine and the dash vent P3 gage display was 12.5V but while driving around town running errands the voltage kept dropping all the way down to 9.0V which caused the DSG to lock and basically leave me stranded miles from home. I will try to get the entire electrical system load tested this weekend but for now I just keep a tender on the batter at night as I do not drive much during the week nor do I commute. The tender keeps the battery at 13.0V reliably.

Im going to say OEM. I have a 2004 acura tsx, which is essentially an accord. I replaced my alternator with a denso remanufactured unit from rockauto. It worked, but the battery light stayed on. I bit the bullet and bought an OEM a year later just to turn the damn light off.

Denso. Always Denso. Every other aftermarket alternator I've ever seen is absolute garbage.