Reviews of Duralast parts For Business

I have Dynamic Friction 5000 low metallic pads, better bite than ceramics and no brake judder.

I use Duralast Gold rotors on my two endurance race cars - they are great. I wouldn't expect the basic ones to be anything special, but they should work just fine.

Just a heads up I had same issue with my Titan and it was the battery. I purchased a cheaper battery and 6 months in I get only a click when trying to start truck. Sometimes would start sometimes not. Then I bought the same battery again to see if that would fix the issue. This time it didn\u2019t start at all with the same type of battery, tested 100% charge and 100% battery life. So I said let me try buying a better quality battery just to see if anything happens, sure enough the truck started. It has kept starting ever since.

I recently got the dynamic friction rotors and pad kit to replace the oem rears and I like them so far. It’s only been about 500 miles, but in my opinion are a little better at stopping compared to the oem. Plus the price was really good.

Duralast stuff is fine. Their pads are fine. Their pads also have a lifetime warranty through AutoZone.

I just grabbed the duralast filter from AutoZone, I think it’s part number FF655DL. It was identical to what was already in my truck. Can’t say if it’s the best option or not but I’ve had no issues!

Autozone will give lifetime warranty on certain (duralast gold maybe?) alternators. I got the replacement very wet (dumb), and it died while I was driving.

Believe it or not, though I installed a brand new alternator(Duralast gold) that turned out to be bad from the start and I had to replace it again(so I guess what I’m saying is check the tention on your belt, but don’t rule out the new alternator as - also - being bad), been 2 years since tho.

I purchased a Duralast 115A Alternator 14921 (remanufactured) which, once we moved the pulley and fan from old to new, it mounted up without a hitch. Once the battery was charged I connected everything up and she started right up. However, the voltmeter was hanging around 12V so we put a multimeter on the battery and only saw 12V+/-.

About 2 months ago I had a cylinder 4 misfire while on the interstate so I pulled over got it towed and replaced all the ignition coils(duralast) and spark plugs. It fixed the problem and I went on my merry way. Well now today I am currently on the side on the road waiting for a tow truck and once again got the p0304 code(cylinder 4 misfire). When I replaced the coils last time the coil in Cylinder 4 looked like it had melted. I haven’t been able to look at it now but what could be the cause for that? Do I have an underlying issue somewhere else or did cheap parts just bite me in the ass like they always do?