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I was skeptical, but I started using it and their best filter in my '98 Durango 5.9 (gas). I ran it for the full 25 K(+) and sent an oil sample out to a 3rd party "Analysts, Inc." for a full analysis - including spectrographic. Basically, their recommendation was that the oil showed minimal contamination, acceptable viscosity, and was still OK for continued use and to re-sample at next interval.
I use amsoil, pricy but the filter is what's really worth it and before I changed my valve seals I burnt quite a bit less, it went from a quart every 800-1k miles to a quarter quart in that same time frame.
I had a 2007 Taurus. Oil leakage was the main issue. Get it up on a rack at your favorite service shop and get the oil leaks taken care of. Oil filter is above the starter, so if you are having starter issues, look to see if there is an oil leak on the starter.
My personal recommendation is a Ford OEM filter, 10qt Pennz Ultimate Platinum 5w30, and one bottle of Ceratec to help with the infamous "Coyote tick". Many will argue for Ceratec, many will argue against. All I know is my car is quieter with than without.
Been running Pennzoil Ultra and Ford OEM filter on my PP1 and now my Mach 1 for 5 years. Never had a single issue, even with some track days and AutoX.
I recently switched to Amsoil using a Mann filter. It runs great.
I added one to my Ford Excursion years ago. Loved having it. Turn the key to on, wait for the oil pressure gauge to register, crank.
I have used the Amsoil Premium diesel oil and filters for the last decade, changing them once a year, and my truck is doing just fine.
Ford Oil filter is less than 50 AED. No clue what's the difference between the one branded as FORD vs MOTORCRAFT, but hey - you can even get a sport oil filter from K&N for around 60 AED... damn marketing.
I double gasketed some dude\u2019s oil filter on his Crown Vic and got to enjoy the new experience of swinging an engine into that car for free
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