I used to use Rotella T4 as recommended by many on the forums. It was fine but I switched to Valvoline 20w50 because it has the additional Zinc like the Rotella T4, and a bit better film strength which protects bearings at high RPM.
I’ve had good luck running Valvoline VR-1 in engines with flat tappet cams.
Valvoline VR1 in whatever viscosity is suitable for the season and the VR1 has plenty of zinc for old engines.
If you’re burning any oil 20w-50 valvoline racing full synthetic. If everything is good and oil 10w30 full synthetic
that oil helped my Honda out tremendously with oil burning.
had a Y33 nissan with 305K miles on the OD, it was burning/losing about a quart every 900 miles or so, after 4 oil changes over a year and a half with Valvoline R&P, its now down to a quart every 3000 miles give or take a couple of hundred. its no more expensive than other quality oils so why not? if it can do that for a 26 year old nissan V8, it has me sold.
According to a well known subie mechanic /tuner /builder that also rallys them here in Australia , the valvoline restore and protect is a game changer compared to other oils.
Valvoline ran better and leaked less in my old 92 civic eg compared to mobile 1
As far as oil , im running valvoline restore and protect. Half way thru first oil change and the caked on varnish is just wiping away. Good stuff.
Currently on valvoline and it does seem good, not sure if it's better than the elf in the short run but long run could tell different results.
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