Engine oil VALVOLINE or OEM Audi

This weekend, the oil that's in it is coming out (it's clean) and Valvoline Restore and Protect is going in. Rationale is there will undoubtedly be deposits on the pistons, in the piston ring grooves and ring lands.

I see all these people shit talking the oil, but they haven't actually used it. I've used it, and it's great. I put it in one car (pontiac) with over 70k miles and it ran way better than with normal full synthetic. I got a 02 explorer with almost 200k miles, it was idling rough as hell. I thought it would need a tune up, spark plugs, ignition coils, oil change and air filter. One bottle later, started it up and it was almost silent.

I use Valvoline VR1 in my street car and whatever full synthetic that is on sale for my Taurus and Titan.

Just swapped over to Valvoline Restore and Protect in my N52 BMW daily driver with 215k miles. I drive a lot and am taking before and after photos inside the valve train. I have exclusively used Castrol Edge A3/B4 for years so I will have a true comparative.

Valvoline is the best oil I can recommend to you. Not even Royal Purple matches it in quality. They have a +75K miles and a +150K miles version of the oil. All of my cars are now on it after trying them all (Mobil, Royal Purple, Pennzoil, Castrol), the only one that effectively prevented oil burn and sealed any leaks in my other cars was Valvoline.

I personally prefer Valvoline, they seem to know what they're doing and have their own engine lab to test and experiment with oils, and that oil they made specifically for hi-milage engines work bloody good at rejuvenating a smoky old engine.

I have to use high zinc oil, Valvoline VR1 is the only oil I can buy that has enough zinc.

I switched to Valvoline last oil changed and really like it. Feels more lively than when I changed it in the past (typically use dealer recommended Castro).

I use valvoline extended protection

I have run the 5w-40 and stuff every day here in utah and it works fine on 300-400 bhp setups. If you are going to the strip or the dyno and going for probably 450-500 crank I would probably grab that gold top mobil one 15w-50. I would also use that for any road racing where the engine oil gets really thinned out from heat. It's also cheap at wal mart I believe. Over at 575-600 bhp we lost a main bearing when doing endurance testing on valve springs with the 5w-40 and very reasonable oil temps. It didn't really catastrophically fail, but was on it's way to it when we tore it down. Have since switched to VR1 20w-50, and the problem so far appears to be cured. That stuff will carry way more load then the thinner oils- the catch is that it's absolute sludge until warmed up. Yet another one of the barriers to extreme power "street" cars I suppose. I'm keeping an eye on it to see if we have a solution. If that doesn't fix it, the problem may be aeration of the oil- we were running at 7500+ for pretty long periods. So basically now the oiling system is a major focus of R&D for us. The oil pressure was never out of the ordinary- although it does start falling once past about 7500 rpms which is also not great.