Brake pads EBC or Bosch

EBC Brake pads

For Autox - why not Yellowstuff. They are a great street/autoX pad in my experience. Reds are horrible to me/not worth buying. Also Ferodo DS2500 is a good all-arounder.

Pros: great street/autoX pad
Cons: reds are horrible
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EBC Brake pads
Spicywolff
  • Braking:
  • Noise:
  • Dust:
Rating 4.5

Red stuff I find amazing at auto Crossing + daily driving. Low dust, no noise a great street performance pad. Absolutely not meant for track use.

Pros: low dust, no noise
Cons: not for track use
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EBC Brake pads
ClearJack87
  • Braking:
  • Dust:
Rating 4.5

EBC Ultimax produces much less dust than YellowStuff. If you like cleaning wheels constantly...And Ultimax performs very, very well.I used to use YellowStuff for autocross events, on three different cars (Mazda 2, Focus S and NC Miata).

Pros: less dust, performs well
Cons: more cleaning
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EBC Brake pads

I have some lighter rear rotors that are OEM sized saved 5lbs along with stainless brake lines and the brake master cylinder brace that keeps it from flexing on firewall...all from ECS to be paired with EBC reds up front and blues in the rear. IMO it was the quickest way to liven up braking capability without getting into big brake kits.

Pros: liven up braking capability
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EBC Brake pads
Sarm1x
  • Braking:
Rating 4.0

Listen, try to change your brake pads and just to be sure, fill a new brake fluid and the problem likely will go away. But try pads first. I recommend using EBC DOUBLE H sintered pads

Pros: problem likely solved
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EBC Brake pads
0xF0z
  • Braking:
Rating 4.5

I did several track days last year in my 2016 GTI with EBC blue stuff pads front and back. Really liked them. Stayed good for 20 and 30min sessions. Used fresh motul rbf600 fluid.

Pros: good for long sessions
Vehicle: Volkswagen
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Bosch Brake pads

I replaced front pads and rotors on my Tiguan, and afterwards, when going between D <-> R and applying the brakes, the first brake application causes a "clack" on both sides at the front. Pads are Bosch 1633A. spring clips (integral to pads) are seated properly. Pads and rotors were bedded properly. Wheel lug bolts torqued properly. I have the official instructions from VW. I've probably done ~20 brake jobs in my life, mostly Volvos (over half of those were sliding-caliper designs like the Tiguan's). What I tried (with no success): searching and searching and searching forums, only found 2 other people with a similar issue on FCP's Brake Replacement YouTube video measured and compared all latereral dimensions of the pad's plate between new and old, same dimensions re-installed the pads all bolts are torqued properly (caliper carrier 200 Nm; caliper pin bolts 35 Nm) found a Tech Bulletin from VW that mentions there are inner- and outer-specific orientation for the pads. This appears to apply only to the Genuine (labeled TRW) pads, as all 3 Bosch pads are identical in every way that I can discern bought a set of Genuine VW pads (labeled VW), ensured the correct orientation of pads according to the Tech Bulletin, and they still clack. pad backing plate dimensions are the same as the Bosch. Ack! More money! bought a set of genuine caliper carriers (with the thinking that perhaps when I wire-wheeled the old caliper carriers to remove rust, it took off too much material). I didn't install them because I measured all the dimensions that interface with the pads and the new are identical to the old.

Pros: pads and rotors bedded properly, bolts torqued properly
Cons: causes a "clack" on both sides
Part number: 1633A
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EBC Brake pads

I just had the worst experience with EBC redstuff pads. brand new pads, and the first time i put pressure on them - they fail - badly! overheating within 5 minutes of spirited driving in the mountains.

Cons: fail badly, overheat
Vehicle: Porsche 911
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Bosch Brake pads

I ordered Bosch brake pads after installing them. I noticed a knocking sound and if you look in the pic there’s a gap at the top and bottom of the ears on the pad. I threw my old pads away so I couldn’t even compare them. Only when driving really slow then braking or in reverse. Didn’t do it every time but the noise is driving me crazy. I also installed new rotors front and back and it’s only the front driver side making that noise.

Cons: knocking sound, gap at pad ears
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