Battery YUASA or Duralast

For the last couple years my riding mower has been starting off of the Yuasa battery that I had taken out of my Valkyrie. I took it out because it was 10 years old and I thought I might be pushing my luck with it. I credit using a tender to give me 12+ years on my bike battery plus it\u2019s a quality battery.

These parts are New. Battery duralast gold

Had this issue with the R1250RT - apparently the hot engine means more compression, so need more power to start - after a while the OEM-battery just doesn’t have the punch.

I upgraded the battery to the Yuasa YTX20CH‑BS and it solved the problem.

I prefer Yuasa.

I live in Taiwan and Yuasa batteries are made here so they\u2019re cheap as chips.

I have ordered a Yuasa 7031 which has 72Ah VS 40Ah on the 7055, and 720CCA VS 400CCA.

I only buy Yuasa batteries . The one's that come with the acid pack. I had one on my Honda Valkyrie that lasted 10 years. It never failed but at 10 years I thought it best to replace it.

Drive a 2018 Nissan Rogue, about 80k miles. Have a Duralast Gold battery from Oct 2023, but live in central Texas where I hear batteries don't last as long.

Last December, the OEM battery died and I replaced it with a new Duralast battery from AutoZone. Fast forward to today, the car wouldn\u2019t start at all. Had to jump it just to get it running and drove straight to AutoZone to get it tested.\n\nBattery tested good. Starter tested good.\nBut the alternator failed, specifically the charging current test.

I bought a Yuasa battery from AutoPro, and they told me it comes with a 2-year warranty. After about one and a half years, the battery almost completely died. I had it tested and was told it was dead and needed replacement.