Battery OEM BMW or Duralast

You need this one, and it takes about 10 minutes to install. Just hop into the front trunk, unbolt the bar from the firewall that braces the battery -- iirc 13mm. Remove the tire inflator and the box (pulls right out), remove the other bolt, unscrew the two terminals (10mm probably), swap batteries. Done.

But during the ownership i found it really reliable, the only things i needed fixing were: battery (it was the original one over 7 years old), tyres and brake discs/pads (consumables on any car) and the regular oil/filter services.

The battery is most likely to outlive the rest of the car. No need to worry. If the car has enough range for your daily need, then keeping it will be the best option.

These parts are New. Battery duralast gold

If you really want to buy this one (I find the price quite high, but I don’t know the specific market in Norway), buy an OBD adapter and EVScanner app on iOS with the BMW module. You can check the SOH of the battery and the general state of it as the replacement could be quite costly (around 1500 per module and you could have to replace up to the six if all fail or the BMS). I’d guess the SOH would be at best around 85%, maybe less. The engine itself is pretty reliable as it’s a detuned B48 from the 330i. Go to the infotainment and check the stats from factory and the percentage of eDrive kilometers (full electric) compared to the total kilometers, it would give you an idea of how the car was used and how much charging it got. This specific model of car is great to drive if you can charge everyday and you drive mainly short distances. I do around 80 km daily, almost all highway and my average consumption on those drives is 3.5 liters and 10 kWh/100, so it’s about 2/3 of the cost of my previous car, while beeing a lot better to drive. I’d still buy a 320 or 330i instead because there will be less things that could fail and I would probably not want to get such a high mileage PHEV without knowing how it’s been previously used. Source: I have a 330e from 2021 with 112k km and the SOH of the battery is 90% with around 1400 cycles. Average consumption since factory is 4.9 l/100 km and about half of the distance have been made fully electric.

I took a drive in my i4 a couple of weeks ago that estimated I'd get home with 4% battery. Guess what I rolled into the garage with..... 4% battery. These modern systems are pretty damn accurate.

Just had a 5yo Napa battery die, put a new Duralast Platinum Elite in there, back to running normal except 2 things: 1/ Random engine fan activation seems to be what killed the previous battery. Still happening.

Drive a 2018 Nissan Rogue, about 80k miles. Have a Duralast Gold battery from Oct 2023, but live in central Texas where I hear batteries don't last as long.

Duralast is almost always johnson controls, made in mexico.

Last December, the OEM battery died and I replaced it with a new Duralast battery from AutoZone. Fast forward to today, the car wouldn\u2019t start at all. Had to jump it just to get it running and drove straight to AutoZone to get it tested.\n\nBattery tested good. Starter tested good.\nBut the alternator failed, specifically the charging current test.