Battery Bosch or Duracell

Bosch Battery

(for general reference Lion are one of the worst battery brands out there. Exide are OK but that's far too expensive. Bosch and Varta are generally the exact same product with different stickers on and are always good, and rarely all that expensive.

Pros: good, rarely expensive
Cons: far too expensive
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Duracell Battery

I put in an 850 cca 800 amp battery and the old one (Duracell or something I think) I replaced was a 900cca battery. Old one was h8. I replaced with an h7 because thats what fcp euro said was the right size for my car. That was the issue. Took it out and replaced with and H8 and it was still in limp mode! Got my code reader out and cleared the codes and restarted and everything works great now

Pros: everything works great now
Cons: limp mode
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Bosch Battery
batbuild
  • Cranking:
Rating 3.0

The Bosch has slightly lower Cold Cranking Amps at 330 vs the Yuasa at 360. Also Bosch has 4 yr warranty vs Yuasa 5yr.

Pros: 4 year warranty
Cons: lower Cold Cranking Amps
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Bosch Battery
EUskeptik
  • Cranking:
  • Lights:
  • Indicator:
Rating 1.0

I went to a Škoda dealer to look at a car to buy. The car was a Rapid 1.4 SE DSG which was advertised at £8995. The car was stored remotely from the dealer, basically in a field. The battery was completely flat.

Cons: flat battery
Vehicle: Skoda Rapid
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Duracell Battery
trader45nj
  • Cranking:
Rating 2.0

Duracell [battery] with a 3 year free replacement warranty. Last one failed unusually early, just short of 3 years

Cons: failed unusually early
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Bosch Battery

A few hours later he came back with a new S4 018 Bosch battery (original one was Yuasa HSB056). He assured me it had the same specs, despite being a different brand (40Ah, 12V). He installed it, and then told me it was a “slightly different base size” from the old one.

Pros: same specs, new battery
Cons: different base size
Part number: S4 018
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