I had to buy a replacement remanufactured alternator (Valeo 120A one) and it was a straight replacement that solved the problem.
Z1 Offroad has an OEM Nissan remanufactured for a good price, that's I what I went with.
Most of my experience is from the Infiniti side of the family, but I replaced an alternator on all my higher mileage vehicles. In general, the diode packs in Nissan alternators go out after about 150k miles or so.
I installed the Valeo alternator that I got from FCP Euro and everything works now. The rebuilt Valeo was $200 less expensive than the Valeo that O’Reilly’s had in their computer but couldn’t order themselves. Also it was immaculate. It was a true rebuild and looked brand new in every way. It was $400.
If you don\u2019t have huge power requirements and are happy with the standard amperage then just grab an NA Z32 alternator from a wrecker and modify the tensioner bolt to suit.
My car started experiencing the same issue as yours. Randomly lose power, no acceleration, give jump start, two days later, the same issue. Had to have it towed to Nissan. Yes, long story short, it does need a genuine OEM Alternator and OEM Battery! For some reason, the 3rd party parts are not as effective in the product. Once placed in my Nissan, it was commented there have been no issues.
A brand new Valeo (439317) alternator is $209 on Rockauto and they can be swapped in an hour or two.
mine is a Valeo alternator and though you are probably correct, this is the original alternator (22 years old) and it will probably get me through another few years at least.
I ended up replacing the alternator but it wasn\u2019t a genuine Nissan part and it didn\u2019t work.
It's probably a crap reman one. The aftermarket reman ones that aren't Valeo, Bosch, or Delphi seem to last a year tops before they die.
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