Alternator VALEO or OEM Mazda

I just did a standard exchange on mine (Valeo 120A), paid 300€ deposit included, so it's definitely a good deal.

Only the NEW valeo or original BMW alternators last in these cars.

Both Valeo and Bosch are good brands. I’ve never owned a Mercedes, but both Valeo/Bosch are installed in various BMWs from the factory.

I had to buy a replacement remanufactured alternator (Valeo 120A one) and it was a straight replacement that solved the problem.

I was able to remove/replace the alternator on my Mazda CX-5 without removing any parts as has been mentioned.

I installed the Valeo alternator that I got from FCP Euro and everything works now. The rebuilt Valeo was $200 less expensive than the Valeo that O’Reilly’s had in their computer but couldn’t order themselves. Also it was immaculate. It was a true rebuild and looked brand new in every way. It was $400.

A bearing went in our original alternator so I replaced it with a Valeo brand and it's pretty loud when it clicks on. It is loud enough that I'm wondering if I got a bad alternator --or is this normal??

It's the typical whirl or whurr noise --it's silent, and then you can hear the whirl or whurr noise when the alternator clicks on. It seems mechanically and electrically fine: It's doing what it should be doing electrically (charging, correct voltage, the battery is happy, the car runs better with this new alternator, etc.). It's just loud.

The alternator was replaced, car died again two weeks later. The Valeo OEM was deemed defective. Back in the shop for a warranty change, still getting voltage fluctuations.

Actually, yes. I did. They did take it back though, after a couple of phone calls.\n\n+1 for Valeo. -10 for Reman.\n\nIf your alternator goes, absolutely get a new one, original spec.

It's probably a crap reman one. The aftermarket reman ones that aren't Valeo, Bosch, or Delphi seem to last a year tops before they die.