Alternator OEM Volvo or OEM BMW

My alternator went and I never had any lights, just weird electrical gremlins and batteries dying. Replaced it myself, took maybe 2 hours and the part was like $150 after the core return

you dont even need ISTA to figure out the alternator is dead. A fresh and charged batter will sit at 13v, used should always be around 12v. while charging it should be 13v. the fact this is dropping while the car is running suggests a shot alternator right off the bat

I know my 2005 S60 alternator has a chip in it that is necessary to talk to the car's ECU so be careful buying aftermarket.

Assuming this is a T5 (5cyl) that price is about right for the dealer. I had my alternator replaced under warranty about 2 years ago and the billed price was right about 1350 for just the alt replacement.

Paid $1,214 out the door. Alternator... No experience with cars and don\u2019t feel comfortable installing myself. Based off local availability, I can\u2019t imagine an option I would\u2019ve been happier with. Of course it\u2019s overpriced, but I can justify the spend based off how seamless the experience was.

The 2.4 in my 2006 S40 was stone cold reliable to 157k miles before I sold it. Needed a new alternator at about 145k but that was it. It\u2019s been 2 years and I still miss driving that car. The BEST front seats of any vehicle I\u2019ve driven or ridden in.

Next and least expensive, would be to buy a new alternator from Volvo and have them install it. It could be that there is a known issue with the alternator that you put on there if it's not from Volvo.

Sometimes when u replace the alternator but the battery is bad it'll just fry your new alternator.

I got this message when the mechanic replaced my alternator with a non-OEM unit that didn't have a voltage regulator.

I ended up getting a new one from BMW after two remans failed with once catastrophically failing and catching fire almost burning up my car.