Alternator OEM Volkswagen or OEM BMW

My alternator went and I never had any lights, just weird electrical gremlins and batteries dying. Replaced it myself, took maybe 2 hours and the part was like $150 after the core return

you dont even need ISTA to figure out the alternator is dead. A fresh and charged batter will sit at 13v, used should always be around 12v. while charging it should be 13v. the fact this is dropping while the car is running suggests a shot alternator right off the bat

Drove it for a day and the alternator crapped out. Installed a new one asap.

The alternator was dead (as expected), and was replaced with a used one that I sourced locally from junkyard.

Paid $1,214 out the door. Alternator... No experience with cars and don\u2019t feel comfortable installing myself. Based off local availability, I can\u2019t imagine an option I would\u2019ve been happier with. Of course it\u2019s overpriced, but I can justify the spend based off how seamless the experience was.

oddly enough, I've only ever been completely stranded by failed alternators. once in my '98 Jetta GLX VR6 and once in my '09 Outback 3.0R

Replaced the alternator - twice. The second one failed as a result of a jump start scorching a relay in the voltage :-( Replaced the starter (in 2024), First alternator failed at 49K miles - oddly, when the car came out of the shop, the oil light came on and they found debris in the pick up so I got a new long block (under warranty so I suspect VOA knew of some defect for that model/year). Had one strut bearing fail at about 90K miles. I also had the AC recharged - car actually came from the factory with too much pressure (would ice up on humid days). I've stuck to dealer maintenance for everything except the strut repair and the usual annual CC alignments (well documented issue...) and keep all fluids (coolant/brakes/DSG) fresh. My car is still a daily driver - I'm probably due another battery soon but it runs great. I'm tempted to freshen the struts and control arms and add a rear sway bar - and possibly a tune, but I also see a Golf R in my future! I've run 3 other cars to 250K miles (Volvo 850, Highlander and an Audi 4KQ) and I don't see any reason why the dub can't get to 200K+ particularly if you keep up with a full maintenance plan. You may need to have some carbon blasting done at 100K, have the timing chain tension and service the PCV (leaving that too long leads to the carbon build up in the DI engines) but those are like 50K mile intervals

I owned one for about a year. Loved the car, wish I could have kept it. That being said, it was only in drivable condition for about half the time I owned it. I replaced the alternator, fixed the air suspension, redid some vacuum lines, tried to repair the front diff, and that's where I gave up.

Spent 300 on an alternator to get the whole car apart just to find out it was the wrong one

We were on our way back from a daytrip when the M3's alternator decided to give up the ghost about 1.5 hours from home.