Alternator OEM Volkswagen or Duralast

Eurovan exhibited similar behavior. Start and run fine until.... engine would lose power. Pull over and would die. Restart would be nothing. Sit for an hour or so and could restart and could get the few miles to home. Next day things could be normal or a repeat of slow down and die. This went on for a couple of weeks. The last fail found the battery to be toast even though only a year old. OK, so new battery. All good for the next few days then the gremlins return. New battery is now no good. Determined the alternator had developed enough play that when warm would start to short creating more heat and more of a short allowing it to eat the battery. New alternator and another new battery and all is and has been good.

I'm selling a GM alternator, mount, pulley, and plug. It's the Duralast Gold Delco 12 SI 94amp, just warrantied it. Hasn't been on a vehicle.

I just purchased a 180amp Duralast New for my X about 2 months ago. The Duralast has done me well so far.

At 48K miles I experienced an alternator fail (car was running great at the time).

Finally, ordered a duralast Alternator which is expected to be delivered tomorrow.

Duralast Gold = new manufacture. A new unit from China. Sometimes OK, but often crap.

Made the mistake of buying the duralast, first one lasted a couple months, and the second one is dying, only charging the battery at highway speeds, just like the first one before it died.

We have a lady with an infinity that comes in once a year to get her duralast alternator replaced.

I bought a Duralast for my ‘99 E55 a few years ago. It didn’t work so I pulled the rectifier off of it, put it on the original one, which put out at 14.2 v back in the car. I returned the Duralast one after I made the old rectifier look like new. The shaft rotation on the Duralast felt gritty, too.

Duralast = Duramightlast. They're just overpriced cheap rebuilt cores.