Alternator OEM Toyota or Bosch

I've got the flickering lights so I'm going between the Denso reman and Bosch reman. Looks like the Bosch reman is done in house and the germans have pretty good engineering imo.

I recently replaced my alternator on one car w/a new Bosch unit. Cost about $200 and took me a couple of hours. Dealer cost just for the part was $700 and with book time they priced it out at over $1,400.

To date the 4 cylinder Camry alternator is the fastest one I’ve ever replaced. From start to finish I think I spent 20 minutes on it.

only thing I've done is change a battery, an alternator and tires (weather checking).

Bosch Alternators have 2 posts on them, the big one is for main battery ground, the smaller one is for the exciter or blue wire. When the cars ignition switch is turned on, the Dash light (led and diode) applies 12V+ to the coils to excite them, so the alternator can produce a charge. When the Alternator is producing current and voltage it goes to 13.5-14Volts.

A 98k on a alternator made after 2020 isn't bad. Almost impressive.

I own the exact car, when I bought it, it came with a bad replacement alternator. The replacement was an eBay brand which was causing all sorts of faults. I replaced it with a Bosch unit and the car seemed fine. A few weeks after the replacement, I started getting a random limp mode with various under and over voltage errors. At this point I decided to buy and install a BMW branded alternator. This took care of issue.

I tried to correct with a new and proper group size battery - it had an OE 140A Bosch alternator and starter with a 2016 El Cheapo battery that was one group size too small so I replaced the H5 with a new H6 group and all was good for a few days... I also replaced the starter just because I like to spend $ and wanted a clean slate as this a vehicle I intend to keep and drive daily as needed. The new battery/starter work great but I noticed right away that the voltage while at idle was now almost a full 2 volts lower than before changing any of the afore mentioned parts. I have a P3 dash vent gage that reads to 0.1V and I use a VOM plus VCDS so I know the P3 reads OK. Before changing any parts the P3 read 13.5 to 14.4 volts steady depending upon what accessories were on. After the H6 battery the P3 read 11.5 to 12.5 volts under the same driving conditions. I tried to get the OE alternator bench tested but that did not work so I just went with a new reman Bosch unit. No change in voltage with the new alt... So this past weekend the motor fired up just fine and the dash vent P3 gage display was 12.5V but while driving around town running errands the voltage kept dropping all the way down to 9.0V which caused the DSG to lock and basically leave me stranded miles from home. I will try to get the entire electrical system load tested this weekend but for now I just keep a tender on the batter at night as I do not drive much during the week nor do I commute. The tender keeps the battery at 13.0V reliably.

Alternator and the battery are overpriced 2x (google replacement Varta battery and smth like Bosch alternator for your car on pkwteile or idealo).

I bought a brand new, OEM Bosch alternator from Rock Auto. A week back I started noticing a bearing squeak sound in the engine on startup... Later got another battery light... Today was driving and lost power steering suddenly and got battery light again. Pulled over as the car was getting hot quickly. Opened the hood and the serpentine belt was shredded. Alternator was completely seized and had burnt belt on the pulley. Got it towed home.