Alternator OEM FORD or Bosch

I got BOSCH AL113M from Adv auto (with a code cost me about 80), then went to tractor supply and got several large washers. I took the pulley off my old alt and put it on the new long-nose alt, stacking washers until it lined up.

So my just-installed today reman Bosch SR33X turns the light off with a very slight blip to 1200rpm.

I went with the cheaper Bosch unit myself for my M3, and it's been working well for the past 4k miles.

If the belt was melted to the alternator pulley, there was enough friction to melt the rubber. Simple answer, replace the alternator.

Also, my 90A Bosch alternator is about the same size and weight as my old 65A Bosch alternator. Going to a 90A alternator is a great cheap mod.

I did this on my mk1, along with a 90A Bosch alternator (AL49X ?) and a variable voltage regulator to get 14V. Also, I replaced all the tail lights and side markers bulbs with LED bulbs (superbrightleds) . This greatly reduced the amps drawn from the alternator.

I just replaced mine last week! I bought a remanufactured Bosch from FCPEuro. Looked brand new. Also was a pretty easy DIY.

I pulled the alternator to have it tested at o'reillys. Test showed it was dead so I bought a reman'd Bosch, but still needed a jump. Car fired up right away, but the voltage gauge still read low and just slowly dropped until the car died again.

So I bought a new alternator off of Rock Auto that I was amazed that I had to re-use my old pulley? But when I went to put the pulley on, the nut stripped on the new alternator like instantly. The whole ordeal is trash

Good thing you got a Bosch instead of the duralast. I had a duralast alternator last about 2 weeks and when I was standing in line at AutoZone to return it and buy a real alternator, there was someone behind me also holding an alternator that lasted two weeks.