Owner reviews for engine oil

I'm using motul x clean 5w40 for the last 15 years on my m54b22 and it s perfect. I tried also ravenol, liquimolly but motul was the best.

I'm on my first run of Motul 7100. It's ester based and has truly made a noticable difference in operation. It's made for motorcycles and their higher revs in mind, with the esters actually bonding to metal- not just a strong film. The drawback here is that from this bonding, the oil can be a bit stronger to burn off, but I didn't feel, like mentioned in another comment, that the internal temps on an RE can't burn that off. Just need to be sure to drive it like it's supposed to be, with high rpms. Instantly on first change I could notice quieter and smoother operation. I'm really not concerned about it not burning high enough, but as always, the most important thing is staying on top of oil changes routinely and timely. That is what truly kills most of these motors. In fact, I can't say I've really ever heard anyone lose a motor and say it was because "this" oil was used.. Unless it was something or some grade that shouldn't have been used at all in the first place.

I'm seeing a lot of strife around these comment parts on this post; but I will tell you this: If previous owner used only conventional, you best use conventional for the sake of the rubber seals on the block. If you want to eventually run synthetic after your first rebuild, be my guest, although I would recommend going the sohn adapter at that point, just for extra insurance that what you're doing is good for the engine.

I don't know where you're located, but I've personally ran Castrol GTX oil in all my cars up until now; the only thing is, it's harder and harder to find conventional oil that is of thinner grades. Which isn't a bad thing, because the RX8 needs thicker oil than what's on the oil cap anyway! 5w-30 should be your minimum thickness, but really, it's recommended you go thicker, to like 10w-40 for year-round, and 20w-50 for track days or extremely hot climates. There's this shell oil for diesel that's rated at 15w-40 that I was going to potentially pick up and start using. Yeah your fuel economy is gonna drop a tad, but you're really doing it for the sake of your bearings.

P.S. get an oil catch can that vents to atmosphere if legal in your area. It will save you heaps of headaches down the road ????

Same gen, same year... I have been running 10w50 oand 15w50 for the last 15 years without any issue except the well known and recurring CCTs issue. I'm very happy with this choice. I only run fully synthetic premium brand oil (Bardahl or Mobil1).

Io ho sempre fatto i tagliandi in Citroen e mi mettono questo olio:\n\nTotal quartz ineo 0w20 B712010(C5)

I've been having my Hybrid oil changes done around 12k ODO miles (~6k ICE miles). Mobil 1 Hybrid full synthetic oil. Blackstone says very little oil contamination at all and additives all still in great shape. In comments, they say I can go longer.

I'd recommend using some Valvoline for your oil changes from now on, particularly their Restore & Protect line. It shut those noisy lifters up in 2 oil changes on my old '09 Avalon, and good lord did it flush out a bunch of gunk I didn't know was in there. I got a few MPG's more after it was said and done, too, and she ran happy.

Use good oil, always helps. Try valvoline restore and Protect. Quieted my engine down a little

For example my previous BMW engine was very noisy with mobile 1, and quiet with castrol

I use the Motul 8100 5w30 normally , just recently tried the 5w40 but I’m about to change it back.

Car feels slugish with the thicker oil.

I don’t like that ????????‍♂️