Alternator AC DELCO or Duralast

Been running a duralast in mine for about a year no problems.

I'm selling a GM alternator, mount, pulley, and plug. It's the Duralast Gold Delco 12 SI 94amp, just warrantied it. Hasn't been on a vehicle.

I just purchased a 180amp Duralast New for my X about 2 months ago. The Duralast has done me well so far.

Autozone one here. 3 years deep going strong

Put an AC Delco alternator on my Celica because I couldn't get a Denso for it. Wasn't going to buy a store brand reman that'll die in 6 months.

Got another Duralast/Autozone alternator in and this one seems to be working for now.

When I lived in walking distance of a 24-hour AutoZone, there seemed to be more people waiting in line to get their lifetime-warranted DuraLast alternators replaced than for battery replacements.

The issue you can run into is most common vehicle alternators are light duty at best. Lets say its a 100 amp alt, don't pull more than 40 amps continuous. A great example is the AC Delco 10si alternator. Loads of cheap knock offs and copies of that alternator all claiming crazy high amperage but none list the duty cycle. The 10si frame is designed for 40 amps of power and the heat that creates. You might be able to get a little more cooling with a better fan but you won't get 100+ amps out of one.

And while I dont recall Hyundai being one of them, there are certain make/models that need an OEM alternator or they just wont work right (i.e Duralast Alternator in a BMW X5=bad idea)

2 weeks ago, my 120amp Bosch crapped out on my '95 GLX. Decided the Duralast route wasn't a bad direction, being it's actually an OEM Bosch alternator, that Duralast performs the remanufacture on, with their own regulator, brushes, and bearings. It was also stated that they had numerous testing fazes performed after the rebuild. I had a 25% off coupon, and $40 in Autozone credit points. Walked out with the alternator for around $90, being the 120amp alternators are more expensive. Took care of the install, started it, power held, and she ran beautiful. Then a few minutes later, I started to hear a bearing scream. Was worried it was the alternator, as that was the only factor that changed, aside from disengaging the tensionar pulley and removing the serpentine belt during the alternator installation. 2 days later, cars sitting there warming up, hear the RPM's start to change, the gauge cluster display starts to dim, the door chime weakens out, and the car dies. Wouldn't you know, that Duralast alternator **** the bed with less than 10 miles on the rebuild.